Thats the way i mountet my MM. Its vers stable and always horizontal.

Could always put a piece of batten across to fill the gap, just screw through that in to the frame it will then sit flush

https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/798600fb-cfa2-45b3-87a5-f19be3a097cc/svn/hangman-picture-mirror-hanging-cbh-30-64_1000.jpg

drill a pilot hole so u don’t crack the material.

hanger wire for sure, and a picture hook. they can hold up to 25kg.! the cable gives you the ability to balance and straighten

you could use C as well, using only the bottom screw… so it rotates…
this would allow the loop of cable at C to be in the open space behind the mirror, reducing the protusion from the wall to just the thickness of the mounting flange

Thank you so much! I’m just thinking if I don’t want to use a “hanger wire”, can i do it this way? And for the wall (hanging) side, I can go with something like “L screw hook hanger”, as the following in the second picture. What do you think?

you want the weight to be hanging, so the mounts nearear the top

and for 1st pic, no C, just wire from A to center point and back down to A on the other side,
the A closest to the top

A will rotate a little on its screw to point to the center of the cable

you could use C as well, using only the bottom screw… so it rotates…
this would allow the loop of cable at C to be in the open space behind the mirror, reducing the protusion from the wall to just the thickness of the mounting flange

strong screws, yes, but make it long too… at least 1/2 the thickness of your side panel
they make them for holding kitchen cabinets which are indestructible…
but this is not much weight

u want a flat head screw , to keep the protrusion small as well

there is not much force pulling away from the back surface, only sideways to the center

@dentrax you are not screwing into the space with the slot, more the outside edge, in the 10mm NOT slotted

that is why I said its a shame, you don’t need so much slot… but too late now

u need the back panel to slide out without removing any fasteners… u said that in the beginning

but the slot is why you do not want to use C as the twisting could break the slot…

Thanks! I brought 2 Cs and 4 As yesterday. I’m sharing pictures to confirm if I fully understand what you’re proposing. :)

you do not want to use C as the twisting could break the slot

Making two screws to Cs will apply twisting force. I agree that. I guess a use-case like the first picture I drew is a bit risky, right?

Also, I’m thinking that is it more risky to attach a single screw both sides, since we only 10mm area, which is why we need to use strong screws, i guess. I just want to be sure that it’s reinforced enough as well.

I’m sorry that I keep pinging you about this thread. I hope this thread will help other people as well from whom come from search engines. (Or maybe it’s just a specific case for me, lol)

that is why I said its a shame, you don’t need so much slot… but too late now

u need the back panel to slide out without removing any fasteners… u said that in the beginning

but the slot is why you do not want to use C as the twisting could break the slot…

@dentrax u would mount it on the BACK surface, not the TOP
like this

red is the wire from the two hangers

to keep the unit appearing flush against the wall, you would need to add two bumpers at the bottom
same thickness of the a mount on the back…

the A hanger will rotate toward the wire centerpoint

Oh, I see now. Thanks for the illustration! That’s makes sense. But… I’m not sure if I can screw it into that narrow slider. It’s exactly 7mm. The sliding system will be broken, if the screw is long enough. 🤔 But at the same time, the hanger needs to be attached strongly. That’s my concern. :(

red is the wire from the two hangers

to keep the unit appearing flush against the wall, you would need to add two bumpers at the bottom
same thickness of the a mount on the back…

the A hanger will rotate toward the wire centerpoint

which will put a twisting force on the side of the frame as well as the weight force

Hmm, you are right. I think we don’t want to put twisting forces on the side corners.

I guess I need to find a hanger hook at (10mmx52mm) size and with just one screw so that it is able to rotate to point towards the center point?

So, something like this?

@dentrax how much space is left between the outside of the case and the back sliding panel?

it’s exactly 10 mm, vertically 52 mm. Would C is most suitable in this situation? What can I do alternatively?

too bad its so late in the implementation, you don’t need much support to hold the back on, but need more to support the whole frame.

u can probably get away with A, if u can safely screw thru the remaining space on the sides