For me the weight would be an issue. However, you can use a standard TV wall mount to get around it. If you get rid of the exterior casing on the TV you can get a smaller “footprint” when paired with the mirror. Really though, like Sean said burn in will be your biggest enemy here. You could write something to have the modules swap places every now and then to try to prevent it, but given that there isn’t really much motion I think you’d end up regretting it. That said… it’s free. So, I figure you’ve got two options:

1. It’s a free TV the’s going to be a screen behind a mirror. How worried about it do you need to get… who cares right?

2. Sell it on Craigslist, Gumtree, eBay, etc and put the funds toward a cheap thinner LCD. That display is a 480 widescreen (from when people mistakenly thought DVD’s were HD and not SD like the VHS replacement they were… so 1995), so I don’t know how much you’d get for it these days. Regardless, money is money.

Nothing short of a brighter display, or getting the display closer to the glass to eliminate the small gap. I bought a 40" commercial display on Craigslist for $100―one of the outdoor advertising see it from 6 miles away in direct light kind. I pulled everything out of the casing, and replaced the cabling with longer wires so I could mount the power supply and daughter board that had the inputs vertically against the back of the display. That cut down the weight a TON, and gave a much slimmer profile so I was able to get the screen even closer to the glass.

Unless your E-Ink display emits light (i.e., Kindle Paperwhite, etc) you wouldn’t see anything. Honestly though in my experience they wouldn’t put out enough light to be seen effectively. If anything you’d see a glow. If you do manage to find a really bright display I think the only way you’d be able to use it effectively (maybe) would be to apply a mirror window film directly to the surface, which would probably end up killing the device due to liquid damage.

Really cool idea though. I think the refresh flash would be the killer for me.

I can copy and paste the contents of config.js, but the issue occurs on the unaltered sample as well. Any change made to ipwhitelist causes the issue. At present there’s nothing listed―it’s default. So, the issue doesn’t occur. If I change it to:

var config = {
port: 8080,
ipWhitelist: [],

the issue occurs. It happens with any, and all ip variations. Hence my reason for not copying and pasting each one―it doesn’t matter what I change it to.

I haven’t looked at the electron logs, because I can’t find them. I assumed they’d be in ~/.config/Electron/ , but they aren’t. Are they located elsewhere, or do they have to be compiled or exported to a file?

Any changes I make to ipwhitelist prevent (or so it appears) MM from loading. This is true of anything I change it to other than the default. Everything seems to load normally―Pi boots up, desktop loads, launches MM. But, when the screen should load no modules populate. It just sits there… black… taunting me.

I originally intended to use the whitelist filtering to tie into the Remote Control module, but that loads correctly. I can’t get it to allow access but I think that’s a result of whatever the hell is causing mirror to not load correctly.

Any thoughts?

So far I’ve tried every possible configuration, and variation of functioning (or should be) ip addresses, and/or ranges.

I’ve tried including IPv6

I’ve loaded a fresh, untouched config.js, made only changes to the whitelist and I get the same result.

I’ve done everything I can think of short of reinstalling mirror and It’s dependancies.

The Pi may be turning off the wifi to conserve energy. So, you might need to turn off power management. Here’s a good walkthrough courtesy of modmypi (https://www.modmypi.com/blog/disable-wifi-power-management).

If you are experiencing drop outs on your wifi interent connection, it could be that your dongle is turning itself off after an idle period. To stop your wifi dongle doing this, we need to disable its power management.

Either SSH to your Pi, or login to its desktop and open up a terminal.

First, make a backup of your existing interfaces file:

sudo cp /etc/network/interfaces /etc/network/interfaces.backup

Now edit the original interfaces file:

sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces

Assuming you haven’t edited this file before all you need to do is delete its entire contents, and copy the following into it:

auto lo

iface lo inet loopback
iface eth0 inet dhcp

auto wlan0
allow-hotplug wlan0
iface wlan0 inet dhcp
wpa-conf /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
wireless-power off
iface default inet dhcp

The important block of code here is:

auto wlan0
allow-hotplug wlan0
iface wlan0 inet dhcp
wpa-conf /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
wireless-power off
iface default inet dhcp

So only add that section if you have a custom configuration for any other network interfaces.

Now exit the nano editor and save your changes:

Ctrl+x
Y
Enter

Now reboot your raspberry pi:

sudo reboot

Once the raspberry pi has rebooted, check that the wifi dongle’s power management has been disabled by typing this command:

iwconfig

And checking for: “Power Management:off”