@ivanov_d Do you have info on the coating used? Is it also “metallic”? I’m just asking because if so, there is no way to put a PCAP-touchfoil behind it…

@ivanov_d Your mirror seems like a good alternative. Do you have a picture/video of it?

@ivanov_d said in Borderless bathroom mirror:

• If you can afford it (I can’t at the moment) go for an OLED monitor/TV - the LCD backlight is seen through the mirror and while it is not that bad I am perfectionist and it bothers me :D

I haven’t tried an OLED Display yet, mainly because they are not available (at a decent price) in 27"/32" yet. But I would assume there’d be a noticeable amount of burn-in/ghosting due to our 99.7% static content. Especially when you turn up brightness to the extent necessary to compensate for a “dark” (=low transmission) mirror.
BTW, I can second the “dark feel” on Chriz’ mirrors. My bathroom isn’t exactly what I’d call dark but the mirror still won’t give you a feel like a real mirror.

My next go will be for a VA-panel display. They’re said to have a quite decent contrast ratio and seem to have a “blacker” black than IPS panels .
I am right in the middle of putting a ~600x1800mm mirror on the cupboard in our hallway. This time I’ll be opting for a Mirroview mirror with 25/60% transmission/reflection in hope of a more realistic mirror feel. The display will be a Viewsonic VX3267-4K. keep fingers crossed

If you only want to get audio output you can try my setup:

I used a simple PAM8403 circuit, an old 3.5mm cable and a 5V power adaptor together with 2 cheap ceiling-mount Speakers off of Amazon (9€/each).
The PAM is connected directly to the Pi’s Audio jack.

If you use a cheap USB Sound Card and a mic you will also get voice input to the Pi.

To get a hassle-free Setup I would suggest not to go the BT route. I assume you will have to activate the Speaker manually before either Audio out or in will work…

Sure,
https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?p=26688409&sid=172a88e980b0429d29361f7537b9d321#p26688409
Just click on the link to the Google Spreadsheet in the posting, play around with the values in the spreadsheet and copy’n’paste the output in row 22 to your RasPi shell. After you hit Enter the values will take effect instantly (until you reboot the Pi).

Once you’re happy with the results create a config file and your map will be applied at boot time.

No need to have hard feelings. All I can blame is my-damn-self.
But there’s a German saying: There’s no bad thing that doesn’t also have something good to it.

At least I can now upgrade my display to a WQHD 2560 x 1440 one. I didn’t like the glitchy Full HD font rendering of the old display anyway ;-)
Downside is that the display I chose is yet not available.
But I’ll keep you posted!

I guess I’ll have to postpone the video. I wanted to get everything assembled and was rushing a bit too hard. Now the display is broken. Bummer.

I’ll have to ask my son on how to (properly do) do my first youtube video. But I will try to fly-wire my setup and show you how it works. Just give me a couple of days until I am back home mid-Jan.

The bar sits on top of the mirror and can thus be easily retrofit.
It comes with 2 small self-adhesive magnet plates that can be sticked directly onto the mirror.
I decided to drill 2 holes in the wooden frame and sunk 2 strong cylindric magnets (10x10mm, N45) into it. The mirror is scotch-taped onto that frame and lets the magnets be invisible after install.

Here’s a picture of my setup so far to illustrate how short the cable really is.
There are ventilation slats in my wooden case on top and also on the bottom. I routed the bar cable through one of the lower slits (marked in red). So the cable will be partionally visible.
I decided not to drill a whole in the mirror and disassemble the bar to get the cable “properly” routed through the glass because I was afraid to break the mirror while doing so.

I also found a SD card reader that will fit exactly the height of the ventilation slit. That way I will be able to replace the card without thee need of disassembling the whole mirror.
The loudspeakers will be connected to the Pi with a soundcard and a PAM8403 amplifier, because the screen’s speakers would not come out clear when hidden in the case and below the mirror.