Looks great! Quick question - how’ve you got on with the acrylic mirror? Some people have said there’s some distortion with their mirrors/that it doesn’t like like an actual mirror/can scratch fairly easily. How has yours faired?
At close range there is no distortion, as it appears in the pictures. However, the further away you are from the mirror there is some noticeable distortion. For me, it’s not a big deal, as I only care what it looks like when I am standing in front of it. At close range it looks no different than an ordinary mirror. For $34 I feel it is well worth it, although I will use a better quality mirror on my next build.
Does it scratch? I was/am pretty careful with it and there are no new imperfections since I got it but it did come with three minor imperfections. By this I mean there are 3 pixel sized “holes” in the reflective coating that are only noticeable when the background is white/light. In MagicMirror mode they are not visible at all because the background is black.
So, all things considered, I’m more than happy with the price/performance of the acrylic for my first build but I will use a better quality mirror for my next build.
So I solved my issue. I bought a Harmony Hub today and it solved all my problems! Basically, I created an activity on the Harmony called “Mirror”. The activity turns on a smart plug that the Pi is plugged into and turns on the TV (and sets it to the Pi’s HDMI Input). Pi starts up and starts MagicMirror. Bingo!
So basically, the activity is set to run everyday at 7:00AM and turn off at 7:30AM Mon-Fri. It is pretty much perfect!
@Durnumosis Hi mate, sorry for late respond, been away, clock its default module mm.
my clock in config
Time flies, my new house has been started decorating. Just bought 50" TV for wall mount perpetration and double check installation to avoid any problem.
My Magicmirror will stay in a wide 700mm x height 2350mm chamber with 2 ways mirror in front.
for safety reason and pi’s hdmi on/off function is not stable, I use a PIR to control TV power directly, the tv will automatically turned on when AC power is in, PIR sets turn on AC 30mins for every trigger.
what thing will be inside of chamber:
airport express x4
stereo amp x4
50" TV x1
wireless AC controller for LED lamp with a power supply x1
10bay NAS x1
GbE HUB x2
upper and bottom also have two “AC Infinity AIRPLATE T9, Quiet Cooling Fan System with Thermostat Control” to cooling this chamber.
hope soon enough that I can show my magicmirror to you~
At least in my TV, the metal backing seemed to be the ground. All of the circuit boards were screwed into metal scaffolding which in turn was screwed to the metal backing.
The ground connections on the circuit boards were obvious. It’s basically where the screws connect the circuit board to the metal scaffolding. Here’s a close up of the top left corner of that orange circuit board:
When the screw is in place, it makes contact with that bear-claw looking piece of metal. My understanding is that the various diodes, capacitors, and whatnots ground themselves through that. So, when I used those little plastic standoffs and the screws couldn’t reach, I used the wire to make the connections. If you can find long thin screws, they may work, too. I didn’t ground every one of the screw connections, just as many as I could. Seems to be enough.
The standoffs I bought were easy and built for this purpose. They have adhesive on the bottom, so they stick to the metal backing. Make sure whatever you use is non conductive.
I had to use wire to ground the orange power control board and the large green boards on the right (2 boards, but they’re connected).
The little board at the bottom is exactly as it was when I opened it up. If you zoom, you’ll see that the grounding screws in each corner connect to a little hill on the metal backing. That way it grounds, but keeps the circuits from shorting on the metal.
The board on the left controls the light panel. That one is also left as it was also.
Basically, if you remove enough of the metal scaffolding, you’ll need to make sure you: 1) keep the underside of the boards from touching metal, and 2) ground the boards somehow
Again, this was MUCH easier for 24 inch TVs. Also, - take pictures as you take it apart, so you can reference them later