3. Strip Down Guide for BenQ 28" VA Monitor GC2870H

Strip Down Guide for BenQ 28" VA Monitor GC2870H

  • Y

    Hi guys,

    I just wanted to share a Monitor I find pretty amazing to use with my magic mirror.

    The BenQ GC2870 has 28" and 1920x1080. It is a VA Display and should have an amazing quality. I am only writing this because this display can be stripped down to the bezel it self and the controller board as well as power supply can be easily separated. In case some of you are looking for a nice monitor. I ordered it from amazon for just 160€.

    Specs: https://www.benq.de/product/monitor/gc2870h/specifications/
    Stripped down picture: 0_1534857057563_IMG_20180821_150814.jpg

    • the bezel has a depth of around 12mm and if you plan to use the casing for the power supply and control board it has a depth of 45mm

    Tools used:

    • Automotive Pry (Screwdriver flat should work)
      0_1534855772293_IMG_20180821_144418.jpg
    • BenQ GC2870H 0_1534855788798_IMG_20180821_143949.jpg

    That is all you need.

    To strip down:

    • Take the monitor and start inserting the pry or screwdriver between the edges, it will pop open like this
      0_1534855843694_IMG_20180821_144129.jpg
    • do this all around all edges, it is incredibly easy and takes at most 5 minutes
    • take out the bezel
    • remove the silver aluminum tape holding the power supply and control board
    • unplug the LVDS connector
      0_1534856283586_IMG_20180821_144245.jpg
    • unplug the backlight connector the circle shows VLED for the backlight
      0_1534856253008_IMG_20180821_143931.jpg
    • The bezel used is a M280HKJ-L50. I found an innolux datasheet for the -L30 and according to this, these are the control lines for the backlight:
      0_1534856598801_backlight.jpg
    • unplug the connector for the buttons
      0_1534856342114_IMG_20180821_144241.jpg
    • now the bezel should be completely separate
      0_1534856302893_IMG_20180821_143927.jpg
    • beware not to touch where it says “DO NOT TOUCH” as the control lines for the bezel are attached to the screen:
      0_1534857099097_IMG_20180821_150831.jpg
    • you can now remove the control board and, if you want the power supply beware: residue voltage might be in the capacitors, so dont touch soldering points. It might be wise to leave the power supply in and the paper protection attached
      0_1534856225796_IMG_20180821_144228.jpg (Source: innolux Panel_CHIMEI_INNOLUX_M280HKJ-L30_0_[DS].pdf)
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  • Y

    Just in case anyone is interested in what the project looks being almost fully assembled.

    Features:

    • Stereo Amplifier, 2 Speakers
    • Google Voice hat and two Microphones, Google Assistant (MMM-Assistant)
    • A2DP Bluetooth Enabled
    • Capacitive Touch Button playing local news as a Podcast (MMM-Podcast)
    • Landscape Mode for performance
    • Meanwell 5V Power Supply
    • Meanwell 12V Power Supply
    • 28" GC2870VH Monitor
    • Nielsen Aluminum Frame (45mm height with 20mm surface to attach two sided tape)
    • 3m two sided Tape which is specially made for glueing mirros
    • Standard wooden Backplate from hardware store screwed to aluminum frame
    • PIR Sensor

    The Mirror will be delivered first week of September. And is larger than the aluminium frame to give a clean view.

    To Come:

    • Casing for PIR Sensor and Cap Touch
    • Maybe lighting from the inside

    0_1535650076882_IMG_20180830_190755.jpg

    0_1535650331015_IMG_20180830_190809.jpg

    0_1535650358919_IMG_20180830_190829.jpg

    0_1535650443765_IMG_20180830_191401.jpg

    0_1535650409955_IMG_20180830_191416.jpg

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  • Y

    This post is deleted!
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  • M

    Looks very nice so far. Keep us updated with your project.
    One question: Have you thought about venting? I don’t see any venting holes or anything that allows the heat to dissipate.

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    Y
     2 Replies

  • looks very nice let us updated about progress 🙂

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    Y
     1 Reply
  • Y

    @madscientist initially for the test runs I will install two temperature sensors one in the top and one in the bottom to monitor the temperature. I have considered venting holes in the wooden backplate (bottom and top) or above the monitor in the aluminum frame and the same on the bottom but I would like to avoid that as I don’t know how much light would enter the casing.

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  • Y

    @maros thank you, I really don’t know id it will all work out, I started this for fun as I was reading about the amazing magicmirror2 project and their community. Two days later I am taking apart a brand new monitor… and now I have been constantly working on it on my days off.

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  • Y

    @madscientist So, experiment done. This is the result of 24h continues running. You can see the temperature has not quiet stabilized but the trend is well below anything critical. My guess would be that with a glass cover instead of the wooden frame I used to insulate the power dissipation should be even better.
    0_1535897114327_temperature.png

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    M
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  • M

    @yep_dd Less than I thought. But also check the temperature of the Pi. In my case the Pi runs at 63°C at 27°C room temperature. With active cooling it’s at ~52°C.

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    Y
     1 Reply
  • Y

    @madscientist good idea, I will do that as soon as I have the actual glass. I have a passive heatsink installed already and in landscape mode the pi usage is less than 25-30% at the moment

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    M
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