I finally received my heat sinks and had the time to play with my second Pi (3b+, not my mirror-Pi, which is just a 3b).

The heat sink is fixed to the CPU via heat conducting double-sided adhesive. It’s a small surface but it holds well. The 30mm 12V fan is connected to the 5V and GND of the Pi. That’s enough to get it running and it’s totally silent. The airflow is enough to keep everything cool.

To fix the fan to the heat sink I just used some wood screws. Didn’t have any nicer looking ones…

Costs:

• list itemFan 1.17€ from Aliexpress
• list itemHeat sink: 1.16€ (for 5 pieces) from Aliexpress, You can also buy just once but I will use the others for other projects.
• list itemHeat conducting adhesive: 1.08€ for 48 pieces (25x25mm). You can buy less but I also use it for other projects…

I use a 12V power supply for the LCD screen. From the 12V power supply I have a step-down module which takes the 12V and puts 5V out for the Raspberry Pi. It runs perfectly fine for almost 5 years now.

@codyS75 Yes. The 8mm hole perfectly fits the sensor. Drill the 3mm hole first. This way you can use it as the center point to drill the 8mm hole.

You should check how much power your mirror, incl. screen and RaPi, consumes and buy an appropriate LED power supply. Especially the IP67 ones are very slim. My 60W power supply is only 33mm high. My whole system uses max. 30W so I decided to go bigger (46W was out of stock, 50W has the same dimensions). If you’re at max. below 30W you could aim for a 36W power supply that are even smaller (I think 20mm high).

You could use buck-boost-converters to adjust the voltage you need for the Pi or the LCD. In my case the LCD is driven by a V59 universal controller board that runs on 12V, so it can be powered directly from the supply. The Pi will get the power also from the power supply but with a buck-converter in-between, that reduces the 12V to 5V.

Thanks MichMich. That’s useful info.

@j.e.f.f said in MMM-PIR-Sensor:

@codyS75 The way I set up mine was I removed the dome over the sensor, and drilled a small (2-3mm) hole in the frame. The sensor is mounted behind the hole and can only “see” directly forward. This works really well, since you only want the PIR sensor to be triggered when someone is standing right in front of the mirror. And the you don’t have to see the ugly dome either!

I did the same. I drilled a 3mm hole through the frame and on the inside half way through a 8mm hole which holds the PIR sensor. Works incredibly well. A radar sensor CAN be a better solution, but keep in mind it works 360° and also through thin walls. It didn’t work well for me. Got too many unwanted triggers. A metal enclosure could have solved the problem but the PIR was the easier way to go.

You could buy a universal LCD controller board like the V56. Buy the longest LVDS cable you can find. The board itself, w/o LED driver cost around 7.50€-8.00€ incl. shipping. The cheapest LVDS cable I found was 0.88€ incl. shipping. Usually they are around 20cm but you could also make a longer one yourself. A universal LED driver should be less than a euro, too.
You could then lead the cables to the inside of the cabinet (via the hinges probably). and hide the electronic boards in a hidden double floor board (if you know what I mean). Like a box inside, or on top of the mirror. Just make sure you allow air flow for cooling.

It looks like you made changes to your compliments.js. Did you add compliments to the module? It’s generally better to add them to the config.js instead.
I’d suggest to move your new compliments over to the config.js, undo the changes in the compliments.js and then run the update.

That’s a very nice build. For the camera you should check out the PS3 camera. It also comes with microphones is dirt cheap. I bought one for 4€ (incl. shipping) on ebay. Don’t have it yet, though. I can imagine that it will look much neater on your mirror and the microphones (afaik 4 of them) are supposed to be of good quality.

Thanks, it’s a start. Google didn’t give me anything useful.

I had create a public share link for my calender in Nextcloud in order to use it with MM. That’s an info I have not found anywhere. My config looks like this:

               {
                        module: "calendar",
                        header: "Upcoming Birthdays",
                        position: "top_left",
                        config: {
                                timeFormat: 'absolute',
                                urgency: 0,
                                getRelative: 0,
                                showEnd: false,
                                dateFormat: 'Do MMM',
                                fullDayEventDateFormat: 'Do MMM',
                                calendars: [
                                                {
                                                symbol: "calendar",
                                                url: "https://User:Password@your_url/remote.php/dav/public-calendars/xxxxxxxxxxxxx?export",
                                                },
                                           ],
                        titleReplace: {
                                "Upcoming Birthdays": "",
                                },

This is finally working for me after trying all possible URL methods before.

I use a 12V power supply for the LCD screen. From the 12V power supply I have a step-down module which takes the 12V and puts 5V out for the Raspberry Pi. It runs perfectly fine for almost 5 years now.

$4999 Holy sh!t…!

Well, thanks for your feedback. That’s very useful.

@Feelm I use very cheap universal LCD controller boards from AliExpress. A few years back I ordered a couple of TSUM V.56 controller boards to use with old laptop displays. The panel for my mirror is from a broken 24" FHD display which I got for free.
The boards have a 30-Pin LVDS interface and multiple outputs, like HDMI, VGA, S-VIDEO. They allow DVB-T but it isn’t working where I live since we switched to DVB-T2HD a while back.

Back in the days they cost around 10 bucks including cables and shipping to Germany. No idea how it is these days.

The boards are programmed via USB. You just load the file for your panel onto a USB drive and flash the firmware of the board. Easy-peasy…

There are also plenty of other boards you can buy but those are usually not to be flashed by yourself. They need an extra programmer which costs more than a controller board.

There are also some MT6820-B controller boards in my drawers which only support VGA out and are configured by jumpers.

@Feelm Both panels are 2-Channel 8-bit and should therefore be compatible.

I am not sure if I understood correctly but those PINs are for a I2C EEPROM which contains the display timings for the panel. However, your controller board is most likely not designed to check for the timings and just assumes them. Hence the missing PINs on your old panel.

I’d say the new panel works without any issues. I generally use programmable controller boards. Not sure what difference this makes.

Please report back if you go ahead and buy the panel.

@andi-aw-weiss said in {HowTo} turn on/off your monitor (Time based, PIR/Button, App):

The change quote: “io.output(RELAY_PIN, False)” and for monitor off “io.output(RELAY_PIN, True)” only causes the relay to work in reverse. I now use this script:

Are you saying the screen turns off when the PIR detects a motion? In that case you have to change the the terminals on the relay. You have three terminals to connect the wires to. GND, normal open and normal close.

Another note: I have a bunch of relays here that are supposed to be compatibles with Raspberry Pi’s but somehow they don’t properly work. They switch exactly once and then are stuck. Not sure if you’re having the same issues.

@andi-aw-weiss I think you are using the wrong script. With just a quick look it seems you’re running the script from point 2.2 (Using PIR script) of the first post. What you want is point 5.2 (Use relay with a PIR). That script used in 5.2 is different than that of 2.2, which does not have code to control the relay.

Have a look at it again.

@besiece Your panel uses an eDP interface. You can find universal eDP controller boards with the usual suspects, such as Aliexpress or Ebay. I don’t know how the touch interface is controlled. The datasheet for that panel doesn’t mention touch at all. If it is via a second 4- or 5-pin connector it’s possibly USB.

I have not yet dealt with eDP displays. My experience is with LVDS panels only.

@farhad said in Unsure of which LCD controller board to buy:

SU6C12H10AS01X

Can you post pictures from the backside of the LCD panel. Make sure all labels are readable.
If I google for SU6C12H10AS01X I only get info about the Toughbook, nothing about the LCD panel.

@sdetweil I have to admit I don’t follow every post anymore. I’ve build my mirror like 3 years ago and it’s working the same way it was build ever since. The relay/scripts solution just works without any issues.
So it seems the CEC solution is good for the Pi4 but on a Pi3 the relay solution is better.