I finally received my heat sinks and had the time to play with my second Pi (3b+, not my mirror-Pi, which is just a 3b).

The heat sink is fixed to the CPU via heat conducting double-sided adhesive. It’s a small surface but it holds well. The 30mm 12V fan is connected to the 5V and GND of the Pi. That’s enough to get it running and it’s totally silent. The airflow is enough to keep everything cool.

To fix the fan to the heat sink I just used some wood screws. Didn’t have any nicer looking ones…

Costs:

• list itemFan 1.17€ from Aliexpress
• list itemHeat sink: 1.16€ (for 5 pieces) from Aliexpress, You can also buy just once but I will use the others for other projects.
• list itemHeat conducting adhesive: 1.08€ for 48 pieces (25x25mm). You can buy less but I also use it for other projects…

You should check how much power your mirror, incl. screen and RaPi, consumes and buy an appropriate LED power supply. Especially the IP67 ones are very slim. My 60W power supply is only 33mm high. My whole system uses max. 30W so I decided to go bigger (46W was out of stock, 50W has the same dimensions). If you’re at max. below 30W you could aim for a 36W power supply that are even smaller (I think 20mm high).

You could use buck-boost-converters to adjust the voltage you need for the Pi or the LCD. In my case the LCD is driven by a V59 universal controller board that runs on 12V, so it can be powered directly from the supply. The Pi will get the power also from the power supply but with a buck-converter in-between, that reduces the 12V to 5V.

Of course it runs on a Pi. Even a Pi0. You can either directly use OpenElec, an SD card image that runs Kodi directly, or install it via sudo apt-get install kodi. It’s a general mediaplayer that can also display pictures and shuffle through them. Though, I don’t know how to set it up to load the pictures automatically after booting. That’s what you’ll have to find out.

Thanks MichMich. That’s useful info.

You could buy a universal LCD controller board like the V56. Buy the longest LVDS cable you can find. The board itself, w/o LED driver cost around 7.50€-8.00€ incl. shipping. The cheapest LVDS cable I found was 0.88€ incl. shipping. Usually they are around 20cm but you could also make a longer one yourself. A universal LED driver should be less than a euro, too.
You could then lead the cables to the inside of the cabinet (via the hinges probably). and hide the electronic boards in a hidden double floor board (if you know what I mean). Like a box inside, or on top of the mirror. Just make sure you allow air flow for cooling.

@j.e.f.f said in MMM-PIR-Sensor:

@codyS75 The way I set up mine was I removed the dome over the sensor, and drilled a small (2-3mm) hole in the frame. The sensor is mounted behind the hole and can only “see” directly forward. This works really well, since you only want the PIR sensor to be triggered when someone is standing right in front of the mirror. And the you don’t have to see the ugly dome either!

I did the same. I drilled a 3mm hole through the frame and on the inside half way through a 8mm hole which holds the PIR sensor. Works incredibly well. A radar sensor CAN be a better solution, but keep in mind it works 360° and also through thin walls. It didn’t work well for me. Got too many unwanted triggers. A metal enclosure could have solved the problem but the PIR was the easier way to go.

It looks like you made changes to your compliments.js. Did you add compliments to the module? It’s generally better to add them to the config.js instead.
I’d suggest to move your new compliments over to the config.js, undo the changes in the compliments.js and then run the update.

Thanks, it’s a start. Google didn’t give me anything useful.

@codyS75 Yes. The 8mm hole perfectly fits the sensor. Drill the 3mm hole first. This way you can use it as the center point to drill the 8mm hole.

Not sure since I don’t use the node serveronlyin my setup but a simple ctrl+cmight do the trick. Or you use pm2. Make a short script with nano mm_so.shand paste the following (make sure your MagicMirror directory is correct)

cd ~/MagicMirror
node serveronly

ctrl+xfollowed by a confirmation with ywill save it. Then type chmod a+x mm_so.sh.
If you have pm2 installed you can then just run it by typing pm2 start mm_so.sh. You stop it again by just entering pm2 stop mm_so.

Disclaimer: I haven’t tried any of the above and it might contain errors or be simply wrong. Just give it a try. It doesn’t break anything.

@mcmalone If you use a screensaver then I am 99.9% sure the TV is still on, just showing a black screen.
Maybe have a look at MMM-NewPIR. It supports HDMI-CEC and should turn your TV on/off. Otherwise you try the relay method explained by @cruunnerr in this HowTo.

@nicman said in LTD133EQ1B LCD control board:

LTD133EQ1B

If you want it dirt cheap there are two possible routes you can go:

1. Get the cheapest universal LCD controller board you can find, e.g. MT6820-B. It has only VGA input but a HDMI-VGA adapter is like 2-3€.
   It need a bit of “frickle” to power the controller and the LED backlight because it dosn’t come barrel jack connector. So wiring/soldering is required. Additional to that you need an extra step-up converter to power the backlight driver. The board runs on 5V while the LED backlight drivers run on 9-30V. The Board uses jumpers to configure it to your panel.
   The advantage is you can easily power on/off the screen with a PIR sensor without the need of extra hardware.

2. You can go for a V53 universal controller board. They cost around 10€ as a set and it is a simple TV controller board. The advantage here is that you simply change the firmware using a USB thumbdrive. The disadvantage is that you need an extra relay with scripts to use it with a PIR sensor. (This is the route I went with)

Both can be found eBay, Amazon, and AliExpress. I generally order from Ali because it is just so much cheaper but that fully denepds on where you live.

There are also some other MT6820 boards with HDMI and DVI but they need the correct firmaware flashed by the seller which raises the price easily to 30€.

@nicman Hello there!

Have a look at this. I gave quite some information there which I don’t feel like repeating here.
Make sure to check out the links I posted in that thread.

Your screen is a 1-CH, 6-bit, 40 Pin LVDS panel with a 1440x900 resolution. AFAIK the 40 pin connectors include the LED backlight but I have never dealt with one. This site will help you gathering the information you need.

Or google for “LTD133EQ1B controller board” and buy one that tailored to your panel. They cost quite a lot more, though. You most likely find them on eBay, Amazon, or AliExpress.

@sdetweil I knew it wouldn’t take long until you show up!

@fonfon The way I would do it:
Rename the old folder of the old Maps-Module and download the new, modified version. Enter the folder of the new version and run npm install. Config should be the same, so no need to change anything there.

Test and report back if everything worked.

@fonfon which module are you using? AFAIK @sdetweil created a modified version to stop the memory issue. At least that’s what I vaguely remember.

I am sure he’ll pass by within minutes to either confirm or deny

@megamarko112 said in LCD Controller for old TV Display:

CFP190W01-A00

You can use any universal LCD controller board that supports 30 pin LVDS 2 channel, 8 bit. (FIX-30P-DO8L). Make sure you get the right LVDS cable with it. You can use the black GND wires for fingerprinting to make sure they fit your screen.

You’ll also need an inverter with 4 ports for the CCFL backlight.

The cheapest set should be around 3€, more advanced (TV controller)boards with HDMI you get for around 10€. Boards with a firmware dedicated to you screen cost around 30€.

This is a really good site to start collecting information about LCDs.

At this point it’s really hard to troubleshoot from the distance.
Of course it’s possible that either the board or the panel is broken. I suppose the menu isn’t displaying either?

Have you made sure you loaded the correct firmware onto the board? You should be able to try any firmware which fits your resolution plus 1-ch 8-bit (iirc, check yourself please).

Is the backlight powered?

@sdetweil Hehe, I only remembered to mention the script after I already replied.
Let me take this opportunity to thank you for what you do or this community!