I had create a public share link for my calender in Nextcloud in order to use it with MM. That’s an info I have not found anywhere. My config looks like this:

               {
                        module: "calendar",
                        header: "Upcoming Birthdays",
                        position: "top_left",
                        config: {
                                timeFormat: 'absolute',
                                urgency: 0,
                                getRelative: 0,
                                showEnd: false,
                                dateFormat: 'Do MMM',
                                fullDayEventDateFormat: 'Do MMM',
                                calendars: [
                                                {
                                                symbol: "calendar",
                                                url: "https://User:Password@your_url/remote.php/dav/public-calendars/xxxxxxxxxxxxx?export",
                                                },
                                           ],
                        titleReplace: {
                                "Upcoming Birthdays": "",
                                },

This is finally working for me after trying all possible URL methods before.

I use a 12V power supply for the LCD screen. From the 12V power supply I have a step-down module which takes the 12V and puts 5V out for the Raspberry Pi. It runs perfectly fine for almost 5 years now.

$4999 Holy sh!t…!

Well, thanks for your feedback. That’s very useful.

@Feelm I use very cheap universal LCD controller boards from AliExpress. A few years back I ordered a couple of TSUM V.56 controller boards to use with old laptop displays. The panel for my mirror is from a broken 24" FHD display which I got for free.
The boards have a 30-Pin LVDS interface and multiple outputs, like HDMI, VGA, S-VIDEO. They allow DVB-T but it isn’t working where I live since we switched to DVB-T2HD a while back.

Back in the days they cost around 10 bucks including cables and shipping to Germany. No idea how it is these days.

The boards are programmed via USB. You just load the file for your panel onto a USB drive and flash the firmware of the board. Easy-peasy…

There are also plenty of other boards you can buy but those are usually not to be flashed by yourself. They need an extra programmer which costs more than a controller board.

There are also some MT6820-B controller boards in my drawers which only support VGA out and are configured by jumpers.

@Feelm Both panels are 2-Channel 8-bit and should therefore be compatible.

I am not sure if I understood correctly but those PINs are for a I2C EEPROM which contains the display timings for the panel. However, your controller board is most likely not designed to check for the timings and just assumes them. Hence the missing PINs on your old panel.

I’d say the new panel works without any issues. I generally use programmable controller boards. Not sure what difference this makes.

Please report back if you go ahead and buy the panel.

@andi-aw-weiss said in {HowTo} turn on/off your monitor (Time based, PIR/Button, App):

The change quote: “io.output(RELAY_PIN, False)” and for monitor off “io.output(RELAY_PIN, True)” only causes the relay to work in reverse. I now use this script:

Are you saying the screen turns off when the PIR detects a motion? In that case you have to change the the terminals on the relay. You have three terminals to connect the wires to. GND, normal open and normal close.

Another note: I have a bunch of relays here that are supposed to be compatibles with Raspberry Pi’s but somehow they don’t properly work. They switch exactly once and then are stuck. Not sure if you’re having the same issues.

@andi-aw-weiss I think you are using the wrong script. With just a quick look it seems you’re running the script from point 2.2 (Using PIR script) of the first post. What you want is point 5.2 (Use relay with a PIR). That script used in 5.2 is different than that of 2.2, which does not have code to control the relay.

Have a look at it again.

@besiece Your panel uses an eDP interface. You can find universal eDP controller boards with the usual suspects, such as Aliexpress or Ebay. I don’t know how the touch interface is controlled. The datasheet for that panel doesn’t mention touch at all. If it is via a second 4- or 5-pin connector it’s possibly USB.

I have not yet dealt with eDP displays. My experience is with LVDS panels only.

@farhad said in Unsure of which LCD controller board to buy:

SU6C12H10AS01X

Can you post pictures from the backside of the LCD panel. Make sure all labels are readable.
If I google for SU6C12H10AS01X I only get info about the Toughbook, nothing about the LCD panel.

@sdetweil I have to admit I don’t follow every post anymore. I’ve build my mirror like 3 years ago and it’s working the same way it was build ever since. The relay/scripts solution just works without any issues.
So it seems the CEC solution is good for the Pi4 but on a Pi3 the relay solution is better.

@mdlefevere Oh, very cool. I wasn’t aware that you could power on/off a TV using HDMI-CEC. I really should keep that in mind the next time this topic comes up. :-)

You could use a relay that triggers the power button of your TV. Or, if the TV turns on automatically once it gets power from the wall, you could use the relay to turn on/cut off electricity to the TV. I use the latter for my mirror.

There is an excellent guide by @cruunnerr here including wiring and scripts. Have a look.

If you just care about turning the TV on and off you could use a relay that triggers the power button of the TV. @cruunnerr made a guide for PIR and relay setup.

@e199504 According to the datasheet it has only 3% light transmission. So it’s pretty much the same. I’d say it still works and it’s dirt cheap so if money isn’t too tight you could give it a try. In worst case you can try to sell it again. However, I recommend looking for something else.

As I sad before: I have the Mirrorpane and it works quite ok if it doesn’t get too bright. Just don’t put it in the living room with large windows to the south or to the west.

I am pretty sure to remember a list of sources for mirrors but I just can’t find it atm. Maybe somebody can say something about this one (11% transmission but also just 42% reflection)?

@e199504 I have the Mirrorpane Chrom Spy from Brigla and although it is a good quality mirror the light transmission could be better (it’s only 2% or 3%). It’s perfectly fine if you don’t have direct sunlight through your windows but usually that’s not the case.

Is your room bright then I suggest going for more like 8% transmission. Let’s see what others might think.

@frank_pi Have a look at Brigla or MySpiegel.de or check the threads of @Goldjunge_Chriz. Additionally you can search the forum. Somewhere is a list of onlineshops for different regions of the world.

@flavito You posted the model type of the LCD panel. So I assume you don’t have a complete monitor but just the naked panel. Hence your question about connecting it to the pi.

What you need is a LCD controller board. I wrote a lot about those in this forum already and I don’t want to repeat myself all the time. So have a look here and here. Maybe use the forum search. You should find all the information you need.

What I can tell you is that your panel is 21.5 inch, FullHD (1920x1080) and it has a 30-pin 2-Channel, 8-bit interface.

You’ll find solutions as cheap as 3-4€ with a bit of hands-on work, 10€ for plug’n’play but a relay is needed if you want to use a PIR-sensor, or 30€ for a board with the needed firmware pre-installed. They all have pros (e.g. price) and cons (custom wiring).

Read a bit and if you have further questions you just ask again. Usually I look at the forum daily or at least every two days.

Disclaimer: I am with no means an expert here. I just went through the same research when I build my mirror.

@muggerrudd
Hmm, I have no experience with those displays. All I can see from your link is that it has a MIPI interface, instead of LVDS for regular LCD panels.
I did some 3 minutes google research and found mainly LCD+MIPI controller sets. On AliExpress I found single MIPI controllers but I don’t know what to look for when buying those.

Please let us know if you find out more. I think that could be interesting for others (and me).

@mcmalone If you use a screensaver then I am 99.9% sure the TV is still on, just showing a black screen.
Maybe have a look at MMM-NewPIR. It supports HDMI-CEC and should turn your TV on/off. Otherwise you try the relay method explained by @cruunnerr in this HowTo.

@nicman said in LTD133EQ1B LCD control board:

LTD133EQ1B

If you want it dirt cheap there are two possible routes you can go:

1. Get the cheapest universal LCD controller board you can find, e.g. MT6820-B. It has only VGA input but a HDMI-VGA adapter is like 2-3€.
   It need a bit of “frickle” to power the controller and the LED backlight because it dosn’t come barrel jack connector. So wiring/soldering is required. Additional to that you need an extra step-up converter to power the backlight driver. The board runs on 5V while the LED backlight drivers run on 9-30V. The Board uses jumpers to configure it to your panel.
   The advantage is you can easily power on/off the screen with a PIR sensor without the need of extra hardware.

2. You can go for a V53 universal controller board. They cost around 10€ as a set and it is a simple TV controller board. The advantage here is that you simply change the firmware using a USB thumbdrive. The disadvantage is that you need an extra relay with scripts to use it with a PIR sensor. (This is the route I went with)

Both can be found eBay, Amazon, and AliExpress. I generally order from Ali because it is just so much cheaper but that fully denepds on where you live.

There are also some other MT6820 boards with HDMI and DVI but they need the correct firmaware flashed by the seller which raises the price easily to 30€.