@mdlefevere Oh, very cool. I wasn’t aware that you could power on/off a TV using HDMI-CEC. I really should keep that in mind the next time this topic comes up. :-)

You could use a relay that triggers the power button of your TV. Or, if the TV turns on automatically once it gets power from the wall, you could use the relay to turn on/cut off electricity to the TV. I use the latter for my mirror.

There is an excellent guide by @cruunnerr here including wiring and scripts. Have a look.

If you just care about turning the TV on and off you could use a relay that triggers the power button of the TV. @cruunnerr made a guide for PIR and relay setup.

@e199504 According to the datasheet it has only 3% light transmission. So it’s pretty much the same. I’d say it still works and it’s dirt cheap so if money isn’t too tight you could give it a try. In worst case you can try to sell it again. However, I recommend looking for something else.

As I sad before: I have the Mirrorpane and it works quite ok if it doesn’t get too bright. Just don’t put it in the living room with large windows to the south or to the west.

I am pretty sure to remember a list of sources for mirrors but I just can’t find it atm. Maybe somebody can say something about this one (11% transmission but also just 42% reflection)?

@e199504 I have the Mirrorpane Chrom Spy from Brigla and although it is a good quality mirror the light transmission could be better (it’s only 2% or 3%). It’s perfectly fine if you don’t have direct sunlight through your windows but usually that’s not the case.

Is your room bright then I suggest going for more like 8% transmission. Let’s see what others might think.

@frank_pi Have a look at Brigla or MySpiegel.de or check the threads of @Goldjunge_Chriz. Additionally you can search the forum. Somewhere is a list of onlineshops for different regions of the world.

@flavito You posted the model type of the LCD panel. So I assume you don’t have a complete monitor but just the naked panel. Hence your question about connecting it to the pi.

What you need is a LCD controller board. I wrote a lot about those in this forum already and I don’t want to repeat myself all the time. So have a look here and here. Maybe use the forum search. You should find all the information you need.

What I can tell you is that your panel is 21.5 inch, FullHD (1920x1080) and it has a 30-pin 2-Channel, 8-bit interface.

You’ll find solutions as cheap as 3-4€ with a bit of hands-on work, 10€ for plug’n’play but a relay is needed if you want to use a PIR-sensor, or 30€ for a board with the needed firmware pre-installed. They all have pros (e.g. price) and cons (custom wiring).

Read a bit and if you have further questions you just ask again. Usually I look at the forum daily or at least every two days.

Disclaimer: I am with no means an expert here. I just went through the same research when I build my mirror.

@muggerrudd
Hmm, I have no experience with those displays. All I can see from your link is that it has a MIPI interface, instead of LVDS for regular LCD panels.
I did some 3 minutes google research and found mainly LCD+MIPI controller sets. On AliExpress I found single MIPI controllers but I don’t know what to look for when buying those.

Please let us know if you find out more. I think that could be interesting for others (and me).

@mcmalone If you use a screensaver then I am 99.9% sure the TV is still on, just showing a black screen.
Maybe have a look at MMM-NewPIR. It supports HDMI-CEC and should turn your TV on/off. Otherwise you try the relay method explained by @cruunnerr in this HowTo.

@nicman said in LTD133EQ1B LCD control board:

LTD133EQ1B

If you want it dirt cheap there are two possible routes you can go:

1. Get the cheapest universal LCD controller board you can find, e.g. MT6820-B. It has only VGA input but a HDMI-VGA adapter is like 2-3€.
   It need a bit of “frickle” to power the controller and the LED backlight because it dosn’t come barrel jack connector. So wiring/soldering is required. Additional to that you need an extra step-up converter to power the backlight driver. The board runs on 5V while the LED backlight drivers run on 9-30V. The Board uses jumpers to configure it to your panel.
   The advantage is you can easily power on/off the screen with a PIR sensor without the need of extra hardware.

2. You can go for a V53 universal controller board. They cost around 10€ as a set and it is a simple TV controller board. The advantage here is that you simply change the firmware using a USB thumbdrive. The disadvantage is that you need an extra relay with scripts to use it with a PIR sensor. (This is the route I went with)

Both can be found eBay, Amazon, and AliExpress. I generally order from Ali because it is just so much cheaper but that fully denepds on where you live.

There are also some other MT6820 boards with HDMI and DVI but they need the correct firmaware flashed by the seller which raises the price easily to 30€.