@nicman Hello there!

Have a look at this. I gave quite some information there which I don’t feel like repeating here.
Make sure to check out the links I posted in that thread.

Your screen is a 1-CH, 6-bit, 40 Pin LVDS panel with a 1440x900 resolution. AFAIK the 40 pin connectors include the LED backlight but I have never dealt with one. This site will help you gathering the information you need.

Or google for “LTD133EQ1B controller board” and buy one that tailored to your panel. They cost quite a lot more, though. You most likely find them on eBay, Amazon, or AliExpress.

@sdetweil I knew it wouldn’t take long until you show up! :beaming_face_with_smiling_eyes: :thumbs_up:

@fonfon The way I would do it:
Rename the old folder of the old Maps-Module and download the new, modified version. Enter the folder of the new version and run npm install. Config should be the same, so no need to change anything there.

Test and report back if everything worked.

@fonfon which module are you using? AFAIK @sdetweil created a modified version to stop the memory issue. At least that’s what I vaguely remember.

I am sure he’ll pass by within minutes to either confirm or deny :beaming_face_with_smiling_eyes:

@megamarko112 said in LCD Controller for old TV Display:

CFP190W01-A00

You can use any universal LCD controller board that supports 30 pin LVDS 2 channel, 8 bit. (FIX-30P-DO8L). Make sure you get the right LVDS cable with it. You can use the black GND wires for fingerprinting to make sure they fit your screen.

You’ll also need an inverter with 4 ports for the CCFL backlight.

The cheapest set should be around 3€, more advanced (TV controller)boards with HDMI you get for around 10€. Boards with a firmware dedicated to you screen cost around 30€.

This is a really good site to start collecting information about LCDs.

At this point it’s really hard to troubleshoot from the distance.
Of course it’s possible that either the board or the panel is broken. I suppose the menu isn’t displaying either?

Have you made sure you loaded the correct firmware onto the board? You should be able to try any firmware which fits your resolution plus 1-ch 8-bit (iirc, check yourself please).

Is the backlight powered?

@sdetweil Hehe, I only remembered to mention the script after I already replied.
Let me take this opportunity to thank you for what you do or this community!

Don’t be embarrassed. Someone else will have the same issue and will now find the solution here .

@gallert said in after MM-Update to 2.14.0 the MMM-PIR-Sensor module not working...:

MMM-PIR-Sensor

Did you enter the directory of that module and run the command npm install?

Should have mentioned that not all Vcc or GND pins are always populated. It’s just important that in the position of Vcc or GND there is no white or blue cable and vice versa.
Have a look here. The second pic in the description looks like it fits your LCD. The Vcc is where it should be, but only 3 instead of 5 pins are used. Same with the GND. Just not all GND pins are used (7. 10. 13, and 19 are not used, the rest is where they should be).

You can also the correct cable yourself. Just change the pin order the way you need. (Don’t forget to do that on both ends of the cable).

@habedehab I am pretty sure it’s the LVDS cable. The product description says it’s 1-ch 6-bit but your screen is 8bit. IIRC they are not compatible. The pinout for the Vcc and GND are different! Get a proper cable and try again. 2-ch 8-bit cables should work too but check the position of the black GND wires beforehand. Google your LCD panel name + datasheet to make sure they are correct.

You can buy the LVDS cables for cheap. Sometimes they already come in a set with the controller board. AFAIK you can use a 2Ch-8bit cable on a 1-Ch-(bit LCD but you should check the pinout of the LCD beforehand. I am not 100% sure though. You can look for the position of the GND and Vcc pins to varify.

@lindataylor11 I have seen your post but didn’t reply because you left us in the dark about what you want to do exactly (PIR or not, relay ok or not ok, does money play a big role etc…).

@habedehab said in New LCD Controller Board for Tv:

LG LC220WXE TBA1

According to the datasheet it’s a simple LVDS LVD. 1-channel, 8-bit with a resolution of 1366x768 pixels.
You can basically use any universal LCD controller board. I use a V56 or a V53 LCD controller board. You can flash its firmware via a USB flash drive. However, if you’re planning on using a PIR-sensor then you’ll also have to add a relay because it won’t go into standby mode. Instead it will complain about “No Signal”.

One like this is very cheap and can be configured by a set of jumpers. Drawback is it only has a VGA port. So you’ll need an additional VGA-to-HDMI-adapter. However, the cheapest will do.

You’ll also need an inverter for your LCD backlight. You need one with 4 connections.

Have a read here. This site has all the information you’ll need.

Don’t be shy to ask if you have more questions. I might not be able to answer them all but I’ll try my best to help.

Back then I ordered an android TV box from China but it never arrived so I abandoned the idea. I also need a PIR in combination with a relay.

However, I am pretty sure you can run ARMbian from SD card on those boxes. There are plenty of websites and Youtube videos out there. I am confident it works but who knows. I’ll gladly test it once I get my hands on a cheap box.

You see the red 6-pin connector? You apply 5V to them.

That controller board is for a AUO B156XW02 panel. It’s also 1-CH 6-bit but with LED backlight. In principle it should work but it runs a higher resolution.(*) It’s best to order these boards specifically for the panel you have.

I was referring to this kind of controller board plus VGA-HDMI adapter (only an example!). You configure those boards via jumpers.

• That shouldn’t be a problem. You just have to configure the resolution within your operating system yourself.

@sonicgoose said in Controller Board issue:

The controller boards are soldered to output 16:9, but the display I had was natively set to 16:10.

Soldered? I think the board was just shipped with the wrong firmware. Unfortunately for these boards you need extra flashing equipment to change the firmware.

The board you’ve linked is correct.

A VGA to HDMI will work just fine. A VGA board with inverter, cables, and keypad should be around 3.50€ to 5€ and a VGA-HDMI adapter around 2.50€

Here is the datasheet of your LCD panel. It’s a single channel 6-bit LCD which runs at 3.3V.

That means you can use any universal LCD controller board with LVDS interface. Back when I build my mirror I bought the V56 boards. The T53.03 is a newer version I think. The advantage is that you can flash the firmware via USB and it has a TV tuner. The disadvantage is that it’s not powering back on after it went into standby mode (- can be solved with a relay if wanted).

If you want it super simple and VGA is enough for you, you can go with a MT561-B. Those things are tiny and dirt cheap.