Should have mentioned that not all Vcc or GND pins are always populated. It’s just important that in the position of Vcc or GND there is no white or blue cable and vice versa.
Have a look here. The second pic in the description looks like it fits your LCD. The Vcc is where it should be, but only 3 instead of 5 pins are used. Same with the GND. Just not all GND pins are used (7. 10. 13, and 19 are not used, the rest is where they should be).

You can also the correct cable yourself. Just change the pin order the way you need. (Don’t forget to do that on both ends of the cable).

@habedehab I am pretty sure it’s the LVDS cable. The product description says it’s 1-ch 6-bit but your screen is 8bit. IIRC they are not compatible. The pinout for the Vcc and GND are different! Get a proper cable and try again. 2-ch 8-bit cables should work too but check the position of the black GND wires beforehand. Google your LCD panel name + datasheet to make sure they are correct.

You can buy the LVDS cables for cheap. Sometimes they already come in a set with the controller board. AFAIK you can use a 2Ch-8bit cable on a 1-Ch-(bit LCD but you should check the pinout of the LCD beforehand. I am not 100% sure though. You can look for the position of the GND and Vcc pins to varify.

@lindataylor11 I have seen your post but didn’t reply because you left us in the dark about what you want to do exactly (PIR or not, relay ok or not ok, does money play a big role etc…).

@habedehab said in New LCD Controller Board for Tv:

LG LC220WXE TBA1

According to the datasheet it’s a simple LVDS LVD. 1-channel, 8-bit with a resolution of 1366x768 pixels.
You can basically use any universal LCD controller board. I use a V56 or a V53 LCD controller board. You can flash its firmware via a USB flash drive. However, if you’re planning on using a PIR-sensor then you’ll also have to add a relay because it won’t go into standby mode. Instead it will complain about “No Signal”.

One like this is very cheap and can be configured by a set of jumpers. Drawback is it only has a VGA port. So you’ll need an additional VGA-to-HDMI-adapter. However, the cheapest will do.

You’ll also need an inverter for your LCD backlight. You need one with 4 connections.

Have a read here. This site has all the information you’ll need.

Don’t be shy to ask if you have more questions. I might not be able to answer them all but I’ll try my best to help.

Back then I ordered an android TV box from China but it never arrived so I abandoned the idea. I also need a PIR in combination with a relay.

However, I am pretty sure you can run ARMbian from SD card on those boxes. There are plenty of websites and Youtube videos out there. I am confident it works but who knows. I’ll gladly test it once I get my hands on a cheap box.

You see the red 6-pin connector? You apply 5V to them.

That controller board is for a AUO B156XW02 panel. It’s also 1-CH 6-bit but with LED backlight. In principle it should work but it runs a higher resolution.(*) It’s best to order these boards specifically for the panel you have.

I was referring to this kind of controller board plus VGA-HDMI adapter (only an example!). You configure those boards via jumpers.

• That shouldn’t be a problem. You just have to configure the resolution within your operating system yourself.

@sonicgoose said in Controller Board issue:

The controller boards are soldered to output 16:9, but the display I had was natively set to 16:10.

Soldered? I think the board was just shipped with the wrong firmware. Unfortunately for these boards you need extra flashing equipment to change the firmware.

The board you’ve linked is correct.

A VGA to HDMI will work just fine. A VGA board with inverter, cables, and keypad should be around 3.50€ to 5€ and a VGA-HDMI adapter around 2.50€

Here is the datasheet of your LCD panel. It’s a single channel 6-bit LCD which runs at 3.3V.

That means you can use any universal LCD controller board with LVDS interface. Back when I build my mirror I bought the V56 boards. The T53.03 is a newer version I think. The advantage is that you can flash the firmware via USB and it has a TV tuner. The disadvantage is that it’s not powering back on after it went into standby mode (- can be solved with a relay if wanted).

If you want it super simple and VGA is enough for you, you can go with a MT561-B. Those things are tiny and dirt cheap.