Read the statement by Michael Teeuw here.
How Can I Mount my smart mirror to a wall?
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@dentrax you are not screwing into the space with the slot, more the outside edge, in the 10mm NOT slotted
that is why I said its a shame, you don’t need so much slot… but too late now
u need the back panel to slide out without removing any fasteners… u said that in the beginning
but the slot is why you do not want to use C as the twisting could break the slot…
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@sdetweil said in How Can I Mount my smart mirror to a wall?:
@dentrax you are not screwing into the space with the slot, more the outside edge, in the 10mm NOT slotted
that is why I said its a shame, you don’t need so much slot… but too late now
u need the back panel to slide out without removing any fasteners… u said that in the beginning
but the slot is why you do not want to use C as the twisting could break the slot…
Thanks! I brought 2 Cs and 4 As yesterday. I’m sharing pictures to confirm if I fully understand what you’re proposing. :)
you do not want to use C as the twisting could break the slot
Making two screws to Cs will apply twisting force. I agree that. I guess a use-case like the first picture I drew is a bit risky, right?
Also, I’m thinking that is it more risky to attach a single screw both sides, since we only 10mm area, which is why we need to use strong screws, i guess. I just want to be sure that it’s reinforced enough as well.
I’m sorry that I keep pinging you about this thread. I hope this thread will help other people as well from whom come from search engines. (Or maybe it’s just a specific case for me, lol)
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@dentrax last pic, correct, in that 10mm space.
you want the weight to be hanging, so the mounts nearear the top
and for 1st pic, no C, just wire from A to center point and back down to A on the other side,
the A closest to the topA will rotate a little on its screw to point to the center of the cable
you could use C as well, using only the bottom screw… so it rotates…
this would allow the loop of cable at C to be in the open space behind the mirror, reducing the protusion from the wall to just the thickness of the mounting flangestrong screws, yes, but make it long too… at least 1/2 the thickness of your side panel
they make them for holding kitchen cabinets which are indestructible…
but this is not much weightu want a flat head screw , to keep the protrusion small as well
there is not much force pulling away from the back surface, only sideways to the center
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@sdetweil said in How Can I Mount my smart mirror to a wall?:
you could use C as well, using only the bottom screw… so it rotates…
this would allow the loop of cable at C to be in the open space behind the mirror, reducing the protusion from the wall to just the thickness of the mounting flangeThank you so much! I’m just thinking if I don’t want to use a “hanger wire”, can i do it this way? And for the wall (hanging) side, I can go with something like “L screw hook hanger”, as the following in the second picture. What do you think?
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@dentrax the smaller screw, flat head, maybe longer. at least 1/2 the size of the side
drill a pilot hole so u don’t crack the material.
hanger wire for sure, and a picture hook. they can hold up to 25kg.! the cable gives you the ability to balance and straighten
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I used a French cleat on mine, one top and bottom
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@doogy_rev because of his sliding back panel he has no material on the top to used one of these
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Could always put a piece of batten across to fill the gap, just screw through that in to the frame it will then sit flush
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@dentrax What about french cleat?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleatThats the way i mountet my MM. Its vers stable and always horizontal.