MagicMirror Forum
    • Recent
    • Tags
    • Unsolved
    • Solved
    • MagicMirror² Repository
    • Documentation
    • 3rd-Party-Modules
    • Donate
    • Discord
    • Register
    • Login
    A New Chapter for MagicMirror: The Community Takes the Lead
    Read the statement by Michael Teeuw here.

    Strip Down Guide for BenQ 28" VA Monitor GC2870H

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Hardware
    61 Posts 10 Posters 58.7k Views 10 Watching
    Loading More Posts
    • Oldest to Newest
    • Newest to Oldest
    • Most Votes
    Reply
    • Reply as topic
    Log in to reply
    This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
    • M Offline
      MadScientist @Adrien
      last edited by

      @adrien That should still be possible with the script method described in 5.1. Instead of the power lines for the controller board of the LCD you use the cables that lead to your backlight.

      I don’t know what LCD you have. Some have an extra inverter or LED driver board. You can take the cables from there. Some have a 40 pin LVDS cable (instead of 30 pin), so you have to check the datasheet which wires are for the backlight. I’d take the VCC wire for the backlight, snip it and connect both lose ends to the relay. That should work.

      Keep in mind that with this method the LCD is always on, only the backlight is off.

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • A Offline
        Adrien
        last edited by Adrien

        Thanks for your help. I use the same model :BenQGC2870H. I would like to combine a solution where i have a minimum power consumption and fast without osd message boot.

        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • Y Offline
          yep_DD @Adrien
          last edited by

          @adrien Hi Adrien, that was my initial plan but I use the two relays now for my speakers to avoid the initial crack sound when powering on the amplifier und I use one relay for the monitor power supply and one for the amplifier.

          A 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • A Offline
            Adrien @yep_DD
            last edited by

            @yep_dd Hello, and thanks for your guide :) Did you try to do it ? do you confirm that could work ? Thanks

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Y Offline
              yep_DD
              last edited by yep_DD

              @Adrien No problem, I am pretty sure it should work but I have not tried it. I might in the future. I am working on a few other bugifxes as well (amplifier only turns on when sound is played and stuff like that). I also suggest to use the microwave / radar sensor instead of the PIR. it is much cleaner and can go behind the mirror.

              Regarding the OSD, instead of cutting wires to the backlight this seems like a valuable option. At the moment I can’t try this (I need a friend to help me take down the mirror as it is too heavy), but I will tomorrow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y86AXOZwlgU (TL;DW: press menu button while turning monitor on and disable logo)

              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • A Offline
                Adrien
                last edited by

                Interesting solution this is the hidden menu of the display. The problem is the boot time i feel like it takes a long time to boot no ? well i will also try to cut the wire if it doesn’t work properly i will solder them. About the microwave sensor i have a rcwl0516 to test but the problem is the range of detection it detect people from a very large range

                Y 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Y Offline
                  yep_DD @Adrien
                  last edited by

                  @Adrien ah, okay I see… yes that might be a problem in my case it works just fine. I will see about the boot time tomorrow.

                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Y Offline
                    yep_DD @Adrien
                    last edited by

                    @adrien Okay, so it is about 3 seconds boot time I am estimating. No logo anymore. Just the annoying “HDMI1” screen on the lower right. Let’s see if that satisfies me or I will cut the wires as well. Have you tried yet?

                    M A 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • M Offline
                      MadScientist @yep_DD
                      last edited by

                      @yep_dd You could use relay with a small delay to power your backlight. So the screen will only be visible after the “HDMI1” box disappeared. Personally I wouldn’t bother with it, though.

                      Y 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • A Offline
                        Adrien @yep_DD
                        last edited by

                        @yep_dd I have not yet try, i will do my test as soon as i receive my mirror, but 3 secs look not too long

                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • 1
                        • 2
                        • 3
                        • 4
                        • 5
                        • 6
                        • 7
                        • 7 / 7
                        • First post
                          Last post
                        Enjoying MagicMirror? Please consider a donation!
                        MagicMirror created by Michael Teeuw.
                        Forum managed by Sam, technical setup by Karsten.
                        This forum is using NodeBB as its core | Contributors
                        Contact | Privacy Policy