As retroflex above stated add

.dimmed {
  color: #fff;
}

.normal {
  color: #fff;
}

To the custom.css file (this will change almost all text to be white)

You might also want to change the font weight (from normal to bold) to get a larger amount of light from the monitor.
So add this to the custom.css as well

body {
  font-weight: 900;
}
.thin {
  font-weight: 300;
}

.light {
  font-weight: 500;
}

.regular {
  font-weight: 600;
}

.bold {
  font-weight: 900;
}

Next step is to enlarge everything and/or experiment with other fonts.
If it’s still not ok, then you need to change the mirror glass you are using or dimm the lights.

@Lorenz If it shows on other browsers then it’s probably so that the built in electron browser isn’t capable of rendering the map.

Try running a different browser on the Pi itself and see if that sorts it.

@nwheate

You edit the custom.css file

See
https://forum.magicmirror.builders/topic/6808/css-101-getting-started-with-css-and-understanding-how-css-works/1

For how css works if you are new to css.

But short it’s something like this

.Modulename {font-size: 20px}

@paulvanderheijden90

IP conflict in the router maybe.

Hard to say since the raspberry pi and the philip hue bridge have nothing to do with each other except being (probably) on the same network.

@Peter We need to see your custom.css if we will have any chance at all to help you.

@leeno Just make sure that the mirror film doesn’t have any (ferrous) metal pigments.
Induction charging and metal doesn’t mix that well (a smart charger will stop charging if there is metal in between, but otherwise it will heat up the metal object).

Induction charging works beneath most materials that isn’t metal (if you have wood around the glass center you could thin out the wood to be 3-5mm thick and the charger should work through that as well, depending on the charger that is).

as for turning it on, adding a proximity sensor or light/color-sensor should do the trick as well (like the ones that is fitted in to current smartphones), they do come in break-out boards forms and are relative small and easy to hide.
Going this way you could just wave your hand (or anything basically) over the sensor and it would light up.

If you don’t wan’t the mirror finish you could go with black tint instead, as it would look more stealth than a mirror film when the screen is off.

@tcsabina said in Let’s talk frames!:

Why a laptop, instead of a RPi?
More heavy (need stronger frame),
More noise (from laptop fans)
More power consumption ($$$),
More heat => need proper ventilation,
Windows => I guess you cannot use the MM framework

If you are building with real glass the extra weight of a laptop shouldn’t be an issue for a well made frame.

Open circulatuion on the back and the cooling shouldn’t be an issue, fan noise shouldn’t be an issue either when surrounded by a frame l with slots for cooling).

Power consumption should be a non issue, since the laptop screen probably are more energyconservative then a regular monitor. But yes, it will be slightly higher.
But with the built in battery you won’t be affected by power outages as much as a pi (which most likely will kill your raspberrys SD-card sooner or later)

You can use MM on windows, think even mykle did a guide on that?
But then again, if that’s an issue Linux works on laptops as well :)

If you dissmember a laptop, flip the screen and space the backbone a bit, then you would have a solid foundatiob to build a small mirror, without the need of buying a seperate driver board for the screeb or getting a raspberry or other small computer to run it.

And most laptops would probably have better performance to run graphic-heavy stuff like animations etc that the pi doesn’t handle so well.

depends on the touch film of the screen, might work, might not. If you have the the screen directly under the glass (not two way mirror glass btw, metal disrupts the field). it should be strong enough.

What Touch foil did you buy? Never seen the lines layed out like that before (usually it’s designed as a straight line grid).

@shgmongohh you should specify what 433Mhz control unit you are using, then someone might find the module you need.
(telldus, homey, HASS etc etc)

Yeah, simple solution?
Add more light in the room where the mirror is.

Another solution is to change the mirror to one that lets less light through (this will obviously also affect everything else displayed on the monitor).

And third solution is to get an OLED display that doesn’t have the same backlight issues as normal LED TFT’s has.

Any visual effects will run choppy on a raspberry pi. Just so you know.

Here are some previous threads that has been discussing your question

https://forum.magicmirror.builders/post/52543

https://forum.magicmirror.builders/post/26716

https://forum.magicmirror.builders/post/52723

https://forum.magicmirror.builders/post/53119

https://forum.magicmirror.builders/post/52457

https://forum.magicmirror.builders/post/11248

@nimbus78

The issues you state isn’t an issue with what variables the different modules have, the issue you have can easily be remedied with a introduction class to javascript. (But I understand, not everyone will have the will or energy to get a grip on it just to get a config file right).

And I also understand that some modules aren’t really made for all to use, giving the lack of information for some.
Using the Readme file from the stock modules is good basis for a readme-template to apply to the modules one makes, and maybe it’s here we should put in more effort to clean things up, but again most 3rd-party modules are made of other users so the support (if any) is thereafter.

And there is a logic to the use of Quotation marks, commas and brackets.

Strings of text needs Quotation marks “Something something text string”
Numbers need no Quotation marks 1234
Boolean values, True or False, should not have quotation marks even though they are text.

Commas are use after each “line” unless the “line” is the last one. It’s easier to grasp if you put everything on one row.
modules: [{module: “alert”},{module: “updatenotification”, position: “top_bar”},{module: “clock”, position: “top_left”} ]

@nimbus78 this is why you read the readme file on github for each module.

There isn’t any standard variables, most modules have their own options that can be configured. And it isn’t really an option to include variables just because, when they are not really used.

The naming of the variables (config options) is totally up to the creator of the module.

Some modules have update timers, some don’t, som modules have url variables some don’t. Etc etc

The Mirropane available in the US (the one you linked to) with a light transmission of 11% and one reflective side of 68% is theoretical (and in my oppinion) a perfect fit for a magicmirror in normal lighting conditions (not daylight/sunny locations).

@radokristof

Maybe, test it by downloading it from dafont and put it in the font-folder and change the font-css to use that instead

It actually looks like it uses the roboto font, but for some reason it is using another weight on the ő.
(say it is roboto-thin for the text but for some reason it is using roboto-medium on the ő)

https://www.dafont.com/roboto.font

Using it in illustrator I have no issue, the ő ű is rendered in the same font.

@michmich ohh, need to check if my donation was sent properly then 😎

Edit:
Nevermind, saw the email now 😁

Maybe I don’t understand your question… but

Hiding modules only with css (i.e hiding them on screen) does nothing for the power saving.
You need the monitor to go in to sleep for any power to be saved.

The Pi still runs when you hide the modules, not much power to save there, And I don’t really think the modules reload when hiding/showing them. But I can be wrong haven’t looked in to the code on the Hide/show part.