Indeed, but then I get that annoying OSD window telling me what input is selected :) And by keeping power to the main board but cut power to the light inverter gives me a drop from 38w to 6-7w. For me, thats a win if it means I get rid of that OSD input window ;)

I just posted a question about PIR connection to a similar board. Feel free to help me out guys :)

https://forum.magicmirror.builders/topic/503/pir-sensor-to-cut-backlight-power

@TomasZmuda if you look at my option 2. do I need to ground inverter and Pi?

thanks!

Hi, need some help from you guys :)

I’m planing to use a PIR sensor to cut power to the backlight board of my LCD. I dont want to shut down my monitor or the signal to it due to the anoying “no signal” and “Input” screens.

Dont think I need any code for this as I should be able to use the pir without any action from the Pi, I just draw power from it.

As my LCD driver board has an add-on board just for the backlight it should be easy. As I can gather I have two options.

1. Use a relay to cut the 12v connection between lcd driverboard and inverter.
2. Disregard the relay and connect the PIR directly to inverter as it has a ON/OFF wire connection set as HIGH when ON

As my skills in schematics and power distrubution is rather limited I could use your inputs on my two options and please have a look on my fancy pictures, the only connection that is in place is the one connecting LCD driver board and inverter. Have I missed anyting? should that wiring work?

since it’s only visible on hdmi connection check if your screen have some sort of auto-contrast/brightness mode activated or something like that. Never experienced this behaviour. Check with another display to make sure?

That casing you have for the PIR, made it yourself or how do I get one? :)

nice!

I’m going for the same thing. Using a PIR to only cut backlightning. Power usage dropped from 38w to 5w. :)

Also note the light inverter to the left on the first image. Size on this depends on how many connections your screen have, in my case 4. But they know what you need based on the serial.

Power adapter NOT included (12v, 4A)

Sure thing!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M-NT68676-2A-HDMI-DVI-VGA-Audio-LCD-LED-Screen-Controller-Board-Diy-Monitor-Kit-/110977522562?hash=item19d6c69b82:g:1~sAAOxyrUZRymfp

Really nice customer care as well. Just be sure to mail them the serial that is on the panel, so you need to take it out of the casing.

Yeah, when you are out of workspace you have to improvise ;)

A friends monitor broke so I got it for free. Hoping that the LCD-panel was ok so I found really cheap driver boards on ebay. Just supplied Panels serial numer and 4 weeks later I got a tiny little board and it works like a charm!

Big bonus on the size, the original board was 3 times larger and had twice the depth. Also with all connections going sideways (and 12v instead of 110-230v) I can have a slim frame. :)

Had the same issue. Try removing the ’ marks before and after “true” or “false”

like this

config: {
     displaySeconds: false,
 }

worked for me ;)

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