Read the statement by Michael Teeuw here.
Powering my mirror?
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I put a hole in the drywall and made a neat little sunk in box with outlets for power (with a PIR for the monitor) and usb (for the pi 24/7) – no visible cables – but I know sometimes that’s not possible.
My plan b was a cable that I’d sleeve really nice so it doesn’t look too bad that goes to small cable box where the cable is split and connected with a plug for the monitor (or in your case the psu) and a converter with a usb plug. Just be careful when working with electricity. I learned a painful lesson on that when I built my Mirror.
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@MadScientist probably an ignorant question. But will that still work if split between the step down to a 5v, as well as the 12v controller board?
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@The-Bean
In my case the RaPi takes less than 0.4A with very short peaks just above that. So the consumption is around 2-2.5W incl. keyboard and mouse. Add this to your screen consumption and add 20-30% on top of that. So 45W is the minimum, 50W and above should be the better choice. But it also depends how long the screen will be on. If it’s just for a couple of minutes every hour or so, 45W will do.The 12V/3A of your screen, are they measured values, or are they from your manual? What screen are you using?
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@MadScientist it is the recommended power for the controller board https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l5919/7?euid=5138ba89bae64ecd98354e79c15592eb&bu=44095069551&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fvod%3Ftransid%3D1755030964001%26itemid%3D112175476566%26qu%3D2&sojTags=bu=bu
It’s an old laptop screen. -
I can’t open that link because it links to your personal order details.
Edit: If it’s a universal LCD controller board (like the V29, V56, or V59), then it also depends what LCD panel you’re using? Can you give me the panel number? Should be a sticker on the back of it. I’ll have a look at the datasheet.
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@MadScientist I think this one should be good. I’m currently at work so I can’t just look at it.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Controller-Board-Driver-kit-for-LTN170WX-L08-HDMI-DVI-VGA-M-NT68676/112175476566?_mwBanner=1 -
Ah ok, I also of one of these to fire an old Laptop LCD for a digital picture frame.Now we need to know the type of the LCD. You can write it when you’re back home and I’ll look at it asap. Probably tomorrow since it’s already 7pm here.
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@MadScientist will this be on the back of the screen it’s self?
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Here’s an example from my LCD that I am going to use for my mirror
The M240HW01 V.D. is the LCD model and AU Optronics is the manufacturer.
Btw, for the future: A V56 or V59 controller board are already available for less than 8€ incl. shipping and the firmware can be changed easily by USB. It has other disadvantages though, like not waking up automatically once the HDMI port is re-activated. -
@MadScientist wouldn’t that be the LTN170WX-L08 that i had to look up to find it? And thanks for the info on universal boards. Though I think I want the auto wake feature.
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Yeah, I saw after I replied. I checked the datasheet and if I do not misunderstand the information, your screen should be at around 10W (max.). The board will probably take some, too. But you should be more than fine with a 30W power supply.
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@MadScientist with the pi and all?
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That should be enough for all if you don’t have more than the LCD, Raspberry Pi and the step-down module. You should check the power consumption of the LED strips, if you’re planning to use some. If not, you should be good with 30W.
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@MadScientist
Will both the LCD and the step down wire to the same wire? Will this lower the 12 volts from the lcd? -
You split the 12V output of your power supply. One set of wires (plus and Gnd) goes to your LCD controller board (check polarity!) and one set to your step-down-converter, which is regulated to 5.1V for the Pi.
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My point is that all the power supply’s under 80W only have one set of output wires.
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Just use luster terminals.
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@MadScientist sorry for so many questions. But won’t I need to solder them in a “T”? Or get a T splice?
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Don’t be afraid to ask…
Pic says more than a thousand words…
You can solder the wires together but that’s not really needed.
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@MadScientist ok awesome! That really did help I wasn’t thinking of doubling them up in the terminal.
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