Powering my mirror?

[The Bean]

@MadScientist will this be on the back of the screen it’s self?

[MadScientist]

Here’s an example from my LCD that I am going to use for my mirror

The M240HW01 V.D. is the LCD model and AU Optronics is the manufacturer.
Btw, for the future: A V56 or V59 controller board are already available for less than 8€ incl. shipping and the firmware can be changed easily by USB. It has other disadvantages though, like not waking up automatically once the HDMI port is re-activated.

[The Bean]

@MadScientist wouldn’t that be the LTN170WX-L08 that i had to look up to find it? And thanks for the info on universal boards. Though I think I want the auto wake feature.

[MadScientist]

Yeah, I saw after I replied. I checked the datasheet and if I do not misunderstand the information, your screen should be at around 10W (max.). The board will probably take some, too. But you should be more than fine with a 30W power supply.

[The Bean]

@MadScientist with the pi and all?

[MadScientist]

That should be enough for all if you don’t have more than the LCD, Raspberry Pi and the step-down module. You should check the power consumption of the LED strips, if you’re planning to use some. If not, you should be good with 30W.

[The Bean]

@MadScientist
Will both the LCD and the step down wire to the same wire? Will this lower the 12 volts from the lcd?

[MadScientist]

You split the 12V output of your power supply. One set of wires (plus and Gnd) goes to your LCD controller board (check polarity!) and one set to your step-down-converter, which is regulated to 5.1V for the Pi.

[The Bean]

My point is that all the power supply’s under 80W only have one set of output wires.

[MadScientist]

Just use luster terminals.

[The Bean]

@MadScientist sorry for so many questions. But won’t I need to solder them in a “T”? Or get a T splice?

[MadScientist]

Don’t be afraid to ask…

Pic says more than a thousand words…

You can solder the wires together but that’s not really needed.

[The Bean]

@MadScientist ok awesome! That really did help I wasn’t thinking of doubling them up in the terminal.

[The Bean]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F191903753580
This converter isn’t adjustable and it’s only 5.0 v would this work?

[MadScientist]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-LM2596-power-Supply-Buck-Converter-step-down-module-NEW-CA/142147326064?hash=item2118a41070:g:L1kAAOSwvzRXzOBg
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-down-Regulator-Converter-4-2-23v-to-3V-3-3V-5V-9V-12V-24V-Module/112472493337?hash=item1a2fe20d19:g:dCsAAOSwdd9aVjD6
should do. They are adjustable via a potentiometer. Iam using the latter one for a Pi Zero but the 3A are enough to power a Pi3 easily. You should check aliexpress.com since most of the low priced parts already come from China. They will be even cheaper and are the very same product.

[The Bean]

How do these look?
http://s.aliexpress.com/67rmau6V?
http://s.aliexpress.com/vuaEjyAR?

[MadScientist]

Yeah, that should do.

[The Bean]

before i buy a power supply i wanted to ask if the one i had for it would work, if i spliced the adapter into it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112168199465

[MadScientist]

Sure it works. I just proposed the other one because it’s very compact and I thought that was important. Use the once you already have to save costs as long as it suits you. It’s powerful enough if those values are correct.

Especially those black power bricks can be of very bad quality. Run your mirror setup for a few hours and check that the power supply isn’t getting too hot.

[The Bean]

My problem with it was that I didn’t want to have the brick of it out side the case. Or 3 foot of wire looped inside but I’ll have to cut it to add the step down anyway. So I may as well try it that way first. But I also didn’t know if it was big enough for both To run off of.