Slim, Frameless Bathroom Mirror with a 27" Display

bhepler

Fantastic job, @reaper81. That looks like a professional installation.

schlachtkreuzer6

Looks great! :)

For attachment to the wall without columns but with adjustment I have made hanging bars. Alternatively, there are now IKEA rails with adjustment options.

What rails do you use (link)? That seems to be a really nice idea!

reaper81

@schlachtkreuzer6

if you mean the aluminum profile, they are from led-konzept. A realy nice shop, with lots of ideas all around led.

schlachtkreuzer6

@reaper81 said in Slim, Frameless Bathroom Mirror with a 27" Display:

@schlachtkreuzer6

if you mean the aluminum profile, they are from led-konzept. A realy nice shop, with lots of ideas all around led.

No^^the parts for hanging, with the adjustment option from ikea :)

reaper81

@schlachtkreuzer6

the conzept is called frence cleat. if they are well done, you can hang your mirror on the wall whitout any gap.

alt text

my rails are handcrafted and not so good.

My timber was too thick for the circular saw. If you use the ikea besta rails it is much easier and you get probably better results.

schlachtkreuzer6

@reaper81
Ah I see. Thanks!

Relic

This looks like exactly what I want to do! I have one question though, how did you attach the wood frame to the glass? Looks great btw:)

MyMirror

Hi reaper81,
same question from my site:
how did you attach the mirror to the wooden frame to make it look frameless? Can you provide us some pictures and tipps?

MyMirror

One more :-)
Can you explain the first picture a bit more? What are the individual boxes and connections that can be seen in the picture?

reaper81

@Relic

The wood frame ist glued with the strongest intallation glue i could find. in my case it was soudal fix all high track.

The consistency of this glue is very tough, so i had to spread it with a spatula on the frame. Before this i had roughen the foil on the glas with sandpaperfor more gluegrip.

After one day with a lot of weight on the frame the glue was harden.

reaper81

@ MyMirror

Before finishing the project, i had to rearange some prarts a little bit of the mirror, because i needed some space for the hanging rails. So don’t wonder.

alt text

220V AC Connection
220V AC Mainswitch
220V AC branching dose
24V LED-power adapter
LED-Controller with radioreceiver
LED-stripes
monitor-power adapter mit HDMI-connection
monitor
5V power adapter for Raspberry Pi und Bluetooth-Speaker
raspberry Pi
networkcable for Raspberry Pi
cameramodul for useridentification
radarsensor zur userdetection
voltage converter für Bluetooth-speaker from 5V to 3.3V
bluetoothreceiver/ -amplifier für exciter
button zur connect Bluetoothreceiver und smartphone
volumen Up Button for the Bluetoothreceiver
volumen Down Button for the Bluetoothreceiver
exciter (speaker)
memorycard for the raspi with a backupimage

Vancete

WOW. It look georgeous.

MyMirror

Very good - thanks for sharing!

schlachtkreuzer6

Thank you for all your informations! So last question ^^ how is the sound with the exciters? Maybe we need here a YouTube video 😁😁

MyMirror

… and a few more from my site :-)

Can you show us, how do you dismantled the foot
and how do you attach the power cable on the screen?
What about the temperature of the monitor? Will not be too hot in the tight construction?
Do you apply black foil on the back side of the mirror to improve the mirror effect?

Thanks for all your tips and pictures!

MyMirror

and did you get that:
–> recall off PDS241/271

reaper81

@schlachtkreuzer6

“…how is the sound with the exciters?”

Let me put it this way, the exciter sound better than the sound from the phone.
But you should not promise too much. The bass is quite good but high frequencies, as for the voices go under.
I can only speculate if stronger exciters in conjunction with a stronger amp would help here. The main reason for
the use of the exciter was the ease of installation and the small depth. If the mirror was not as flat as possible
I should have used real speakers with their own acoustic cabinet.

reaper81

@MyMirror

“…Can you show us, how do you dismantled the foot…”
Sorry but i have no pictures from the dismantling the foot. But is realy easy. All you have to do is remove the back of the palstik from the monitor, which is held with plastic noses. It is best to use a slightly wider spatula or car interior tool. Then you can already see the three screws with which the foot on the monitor screwed. In the end, only the monitor foot has to be screwed on to get the cable out of it.

“…What about the temperature…”
I do not know if the monitor temperature will be a problem in the future. If so, ventilation holes could still be drilled in the upper part of the frame.

“…apply black foil on the back side…”
No, the black film is there to reflect incident light just as the black monitor does. If I did not do that, I would have a darker reflection in the area of the monitor than in the areas without a monitor.

reaper81

@MyMirror

damm shit. Without the monitor foot I will probably not be able to complain the monitor.

schlachtkreuzer6

@reaper81
Thanks! I found some nice speakers with 10W/20W and about 40mm depth so my mirror will be something about 50-60mm depth overall. And I was thinking about exciters as well. But I am afraid of a lot distortion in the mirror itself when you play music at higher levels and standing in front of it. What do you say about that? Is it hard to see or is it like in some cheap cars that you can’t read numberplates in the backmirror because the whole car is shaking and also the glass and mirrors…

My speakers: https://www.neuhold-elektronik.at/catshop/product_info.php?cPath=242_253&products_id=6537

I am using an amp HAT and four of those speakers. But I’m missing some deeper frequencies (110…20.000 Hz) you hear that there is a lot missing in playing music. So I thought I will get an exciter with low frequencies ~20-200Hz to get a fuller sound. There are basically TV speakers so they are quite good at higher frequencies.

I really should post my project here ^^