Read the statement by Michael Teeuw here.
Powering my mirror?
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So I have a LCD mirror, with a controller board. And I’m planning to get a raspberry pi to run magic mirror 2 on. But I would like to make this as clean as possible. And the included power supply for the controller board is bulky and and the power supply is in the middle of the cord like normal. But I’d like it inside mirror without a large bundle of cord (The goal is to keep it thin). Also I’d like to only run one power cord to the mirror, if seen cheap step down module’s and think that may be the best way? Any advice is appreciated!
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hello Bean,
for me it was the easyest way to used serveral power supplies. One for the LCD-Monitor (19V), one for the Raspi (5V) and one for the LED-lightning (24V). see here
they were all smaller than the frame (3,8cm). It is a littel bit ugly, but the alternative are serveral different voltageconverter and one very big power supply, witch is definititly taller than 3,8cm.
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You should check how much power your mirror, incl. screen and RaPi, consumes and buy an appropriate LED power supply. Especially the IP67 ones are very slim. My 60W power supply is only 33mm high. My whole system uses max. 30W so I decided to go bigger (46W was out of stock, 50W has the same dimensions). If you’re at max. below 30W you could aim for a 36W power supply that are even smaller (I think 20mm high).
You could use buck-boost-converters to adjust the voltage you need for the Pi or the LCD. In my case the LCD is driven by a V59 universal controller board that runs on 12V, so it can be powered directly from the supply. The Pi will get the power also from the power supply but with a buck-converter in-between, that reduces the 12V to 5V.
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I’m actually not sure what to check for watt consumption. I’m only seeing volt and amp.
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You could use something like this:
You plug in the wall outlet and then you plug the power supply into this device. It will show you voltage, amperage, wattage, etc. They are very cheap. I think I paid for mine around 5€ 5 years ago.
Or, if you know how much ampere is used at a known voltage, you can easily calculate the wattage by multiplying amere A with voltage V, e.g. 3A at 12V would result in 36W.
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@MadScientist ok so you example is exactly the specs for my display. And from what I’ve seen RasPi3’s won’t reach 4 watts. So any psu over 40 should work, correct?
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@The-Bean said in Powering my mirror?:
I’m actually not sure what to check for watt consumption. I’m only seeing volt and amp.
W = V * A (Watt = Volts * Ampere)
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I put a hole in the drywall and made a neat little sunk in box with outlets for power (with a PIR for the monitor) and usb (for the pi 24/7) – no visible cables – but I know sometimes that’s not possible.
My plan b was a cable that I’d sleeve really nice so it doesn’t look too bad that goes to small cable box where the cable is split and connected with a plug for the monitor (or in your case the psu) and a converter with a usb plug. Just be careful when working with electricity. I learned a painful lesson on that when I built my Mirror.
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@MadScientist probably an ignorant question. But will that still work if split between the step down to a 5v, as well as the 12v controller board?
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@The-Bean
In my case the RaPi takes less than 0.4A with very short peaks just above that. So the consumption is around 2-2.5W incl. keyboard and mouse. Add this to your screen consumption and add 20-30% on top of that. So 45W is the minimum, 50W and above should be the better choice. But it also depends how long the screen will be on. If it’s just for a couple of minutes every hour or so, 45W will do.The 12V/3A of your screen, are they measured values, or are they from your manual? What screen are you using?
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@MadScientist it is the recommended power for the controller board https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l5919/7?euid=5138ba89bae64ecd98354e79c15592eb&bu=44095069551&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fvod%3Ftransid%3D1755030964001%26itemid%3D112175476566%26qu%3D2&sojTags=bu=bu
It’s an old laptop screen. -
I can’t open that link because it links to your personal order details.
Edit: If it’s a universal LCD controller board (like the V29, V56, or V59), then it also depends what LCD panel you’re using? Can you give me the panel number? Should be a sticker on the back of it. I’ll have a look at the datasheet.
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@MadScientist I think this one should be good. I’m currently at work so I can’t just look at it.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Controller-Board-Driver-kit-for-LTN170WX-L08-HDMI-DVI-VGA-M-NT68676/112175476566?_mwBanner=1 -
Ah ok, I also of one of these to fire an old Laptop LCD for a digital picture frame.Now we need to know the type of the LCD. You can write it when you’re back home and I’ll look at it asap. Probably tomorrow since it’s already 7pm here.
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@MadScientist will this be on the back of the screen it’s self?
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Here’s an example from my LCD that I am going to use for my mirror
The M240HW01 V.D. is the LCD model and AU Optronics is the manufacturer.
Btw, for the future: A V56 or V59 controller board are already available for less than 8€ incl. shipping and the firmware can be changed easily by USB. It has other disadvantages though, like not waking up automatically once the HDMI port is re-activated. -
@MadScientist wouldn’t that be the LTN170WX-L08 that i had to look up to find it? And thanks for the info on universal boards. Though I think I want the auto wake feature.
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Yeah, I saw after I replied. I checked the datasheet and if I do not misunderstand the information, your screen should be at around 10W (max.). The board will probably take some, too. But you should be more than fine with a 30W power supply.
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@MadScientist with the pi and all?
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