Read the statement by Michael Teeuw here.
Bathroom Magic Mirror
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@qu1que Thanks a lot for your post.
The bottom button boots the Raspberry in a safe way (without simply turning off the power)
The top button controls the lights in the bathroom via a homematic webservice.
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@spitzlbergerj
I love your work. Could you recommend any tipps on how to build a mirror in the bath? I would like to do this as my next project. So are there any Best Practices regarding any silicone or electronics?.
Greetings from Germany :) -
@paulb Hallo Paul,
das Silicon, das ich verwendet habe, habe ich im Post angegeben. Der Spionspiegel verlangt ein spezielles Silicon (neutralvernetzend), damit die Beschichtung nicht angelöst wird. Und ansonsten habe ich Standard-Komponenten verwendet. Durch die Lüftungsöffnungen erhoffe ich mir eine bessere Belüftung. Bisher konnte ich keine Probleme feststellen.
Grüße
Sepp -
@spitzlbergerj Impressive mirror!
Especially like the lighting solution.
What glass did you use? (also from Germany here)
What is the material you have used for the backplate? -
Hi @lavolp3,
I bought the LED light bar here
As described in the last section of the article, I purchased the mirror from Glas-Star.de and the Aluminium composite panel (ACP - german: Alu Dibond) from plattenzuschnitt24.de as my backplate.The Aluminium composite panel is 4 mm thick and serves as a “black background” and as a mounting surface for all installations. It also stiffens the wooden frame on which I screwed the plate.
greetings
Sepp -
@spitzlbergerj OK so you’re using the Mirropane Chrome Spy there I assume.
Going to order that as well since I have the feeling it’s the best glass for a well lit bath.Thanks for the Alu Dibond tip.
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@spitzlbergerj Moin Sepp, danke für dein Feedback.
Werde es mal meiner Freundin vorschlagen… vllt wird das ja was :-DViele Grüße aus Hamburg,
Paul -
@spitzlbergerj Super nice build!
If you don’t mind, a couple of questions:
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Seeing that you screwed the Dibond panel into the wood frame, did you cover up the screw holes afterwards or are they just not visible through the glass?
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I didn’t see any brackets or bracing in the photos, so how are you actually holding the monitor in place?
Thanks!
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@michael5r Good morning,
I’ll be happy to answer the questions:- I did not cover the screws. You still can’t see them through the glass.
If you want to be sure, it should be sufficient to paint the screws with a black permanent marker.
The only thing you see at the moment (if you know where to look ;-) ) is a small gap between the wooden frame and the silicone. At this point I apparently didn’t press the glass on well enough when I glued it to the frame. But that’s a little something.
- The monitor is actually already being fixed by the cutout in the Dibond plate. I adapted the cutout very exactly to the size of the screen. With an adhesive tape around it this is then sufficiently fixed. But I finally screwed two small angles to the wooden frame, which hold the monitor securely in the cutout of the panel. This is now doubly secure.
Another tip about the motion detector (see also the supplement above in the text):
In addition to the cutout for the monitor, I would now have an additional small cutout for the radar board (20 x 40 mm) made. The radar detector works perfectly, but unfortunately not through the Dibond plate. I had to fix it at the bottom of the frame. That’s OK, but it would have been perfect behind the mirror glass.Many greetings
Sepp
- I did not cover the screws. You still can’t see them through the glass.
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Hello,
very nice and waf.
How did you fix the mirror on the wood ?
Thanks,
marc,