My first MagicMirror is now finished and mounted in our bathroom.

The following requirements had to be fulfilled:

• maximum woman acceptance factor
• minimum depth
• rimless mirror
• Mounting a LED light bar
• Integration into my Homematic installation
• Button to reboot the Raspberry pi
• Button for further control tasks
• Motion control

I have planned the mirror with SketchUp:

Picture 1:

Picture 2:

Picture 3:
Fräsung für Silikonfuge/Milling groove for silicone joint

Picture 4:

Picture 5:

Picture 6:

Picture 7: (wall mount)

I used beechwood

Picture 8:

Picture 9:

Picture 10:

Picture 11:

Picture 12:

Photos of the assembly

Picture 13:

Picture 14:

Picture 15:

Picture 16:

Picture 17:

Picture 18:

Picture 19:

Picture 20:

Picture 21:

To connect the mirror to the power, I use a “cold device plug” (C13/C14 coupler). I split the former extension cable in the middle.

And that’s how the mirror looks finished

Picture 22:

Picture 23:

Picture 24:

The following websites helped me with the construction and the configuration

https://www.heise.de/ct/hotline/Ein-Ausschalter-fuer-Raspberry-Pi-und-Raspi-Zero-3892620.html?wt_mc=print.ct.2017.25.150
https://webnist.de/python-script-auf-dem-raspberry-pi-automatisch-starten/
https://pi-buch.info/hdmi-ausgang-unkompliziert-ein-und-ausschalten/
https://www.nils-snake.de/archives/magic-mirror-bewegungssensor-einbauen-teil-5

I have used:

• Raspberry pi 3
• Beech wood from the hardware store
• Aluminium composite panel (ACP) with cutout (https://www.plattenzuschnitt24.de/ - german: Alu Dibond Platte)
• Spy mirror (https://www.glas-star.de/spionspiegelnachmass/chrome-spy-spiegel/)
• Silicone (PCI Silcofern S) Color: black (Important! Never use transparent silicone. Otherwise you will see it and regret it!)
• Screen (HP 22w (1CA83AA) 54.6 cm (21.5 inch) monitor (IPS, Full HD, HDMI) https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B0732RBR3J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc = 1)
• Radar motion detector (Amazon Haljia 5 RCWL-0516)

To fix the frame to the wall I use fittings as they are also used in the assembly of kitchen wall cabinets (see also picture 7). These are height-adjustable and depth-adjustable. The frame is fastened there over a vertical screw from above by the frame at the substructure. (see picture 24). I used these parts:
rail: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MPZM5ER/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fitting left: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BDR8JV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fittign right: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BDR8K32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Download the Sketchup File

Addendum to the motion detector - radar detector:
In addition to the cutout for the monitor, I would now have an additional small cutout for the radar board (20 x 40 mm) made. The radar detector works perfectly, but unfortunately not through the Dibond plate. I had to fix it at the bottom of the frame. That’s OK, but it would have been perfect behind the mirror glass.

Hi,
and again I have finished a bathroom MagicMirror. This time it should be a mirror cabinet by special request, in Germany one says often “Alibert” to this kind of bathroom mirror. And so the MagicAlibert was born.

The principle of my MagicMirror you can see in this post.
You can also find the sources for mirror glass and accessories there.

Exterieur

Interieur

Parts, milled

Parts, Flat dowel

Parts, system 32 holes

Hinge holes

Hinges nearly closed

Hings open

Shell clamped

Shell finished

With back wall

wall mounts

Hole for cable

Body with doors

right door with cutout for screen

left door without cutout

back plane for right door

back plane for right door

doors closed

after painting

hinge

3D prints for left door - bracket glass insert - bracket cross bar

3D prints for left door - bracket glass insert - bracket cross bar

3D prints for left door - bracket glass insert - bracket cross bar

Screen built in

all technic installed

all technic installed

mounted back panel right door

Handles and bracket mounted to hold up the heavy doors

Handles and bracket mounted to hold up the heavy doors

left door open

right door open

finished - ready to moun

I have used:

• Raspberry pi 3
• Beech wood from the hardware store
• Aluminium composite panel (ACP) with cutout (https://www.plattenzuschnitt24.de/ - german: Alu Dibond Platte)
• Spy mirror (https://www.glas-star.de/spionspiegelnachmass/chrome-spy-spiegel/)
• Silicone (PCI Silcofern S) Color: black (Important! Never use transparent silicone. Otherwise you will see it and regret it!)
• Screen (HP 24w (1CA86AA) 60,45 cm (23,8 Zoll) monitor (IPS, Full HD, HDMI)
• Radar motion detector (Amazon Haljia 5 RCWL-0516)

You find a 3D model here

If you want to know more, then ask

Regards
Josef

@sdetweil many thanks!

The wrong spelling was the right track. In the installation instructions I had written:

git clone https://github.com/spitzlbergerj/MMM-Teslalogger
cd MMM-Teslalogger
npm install

But it must be called (capital L)

git clone https://github.com/spitzlbergerj/MMM-TeslaLogger
cd MMM-TeslaLogger
npm install

Hi all,
I hope that this list will reconcile you and that you will forgive me for having only given the code for Berlin at the beginning of my code additions

Thanks to Mykle1 for including my changes in the code

n168 Germany - Bavaria - Munich
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n74 Senegal - Dakar
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n71 Tanzania - Dar es Salaam
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n135 Togo - Lomé
n738 Tokelau - Fakaofo
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n776 United Arab Emirates - Dubai - Dubai
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n919 United Kingdom - Northern Ireland - Belfast
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n90 United Kingdom - Scotland - Glasgow
n298 United Kingdom - Wales - Cardiff
n163 Uruguay - Montevideo
n3399 US Minor Outlying Islands - Baker Island
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n2131 US Minor Outlying Islands - Wake Island
n407 USA - Alabama - Montgomery
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n867 USA - Florida - Orlando
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n62 USA - West Virginia - Charleston
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n158 USA - Wisconsin - Milwaukee
n778 USA - Wyoming - Cheyenne
n244 Uzbekistan - Tashkent
n280 Vanuatu - Port Vila
n710 Vatican City State - Vatican City
n58 Venezuela - Caracas
n95 Vietnam - Hanoi
n218 Vietnam - Ho Chi Minh
n741 Western Sahara - El Aaiún
n6 Yemen - Aden
n672 Yemen - Sana
n140 Zambia - Lusaka
n96 Zimbabwe - Harare

@michael5r Good morning,
I’ll be happy to answer the questions:

1. I did not cover the screws. You still can’t see them through the glass.
   If you want to be sure, it should be sufficient to paint the screws with a black permanent marker.
   The only thing you see at the moment (if you know where to look ) is a small gap between the wooden frame and the silicone. At this point I apparently didn’t press the glass on well enough when I glued it to the frame. But that’s a little something.

2. The monitor is actually already being fixed by the cutout in the Dibond plate. I adapted the cutout very exactly to the size of the screen. With an adhesive tape around it this is then sufficiently fixed. But I finally screwed two small angles to the wooden frame, which hold the monitor securely in the cutout of the panel. This is now doubly secure.

Another tip about the motion detector (see also the supplement above in the text):
In addition to the cutout for the monitor, I would now have an additional small cutout for the radar board (20 x 40 mm) made. The radar detector works perfectly, but unfortunately not through the Dibond plate. I had to fix it at the bottom of the frame. That’s OK, but it would have been perfect behind the mirror glass.

Many greetings

Sepp

@ramez Hi,
Thank you for your kind words of praise.
On picture 7 you can see my assembly construction. I use the same principle as for a kitchen wall cabinet. A rail is mounted on the wall. The construction hangs then with special fittings on this rail. The advantage of these fittings is that they are height-adjustable and depth-adjustable. This makes exact positioning possible. This is very good for drilling between tiles, because you should only drill in the joints.
I then fastened the frame itself with screws from above through the frame into the substructure (see picture 24).
Here are the links:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MPZM5ER/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BDR8K32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@qu1que Thanks a lot for your post.

The bottom button boots the Raspberry in a safe way (without simply turning off the power)

The top button controls the lights in the bathroom via a homematic webservice.

Hi everybody,

and here are the photos of the interior of the right door:

The screen is already fixed through the cutout of the Alu Dibond plate. With a little tape it is actually already fixed enough. For safety I have attached 4 angles, which press it additionally in. The Raspberry is mounted on a 3D printed plate. The cable routing is done via damp room cable boxes.

right door - interieur

right door - interieur

Hi @bachoo786 ,
no, I have no problems with it at all.
However, I have been using Ubiquiti access points at home for a long time, because my router (FritzBox) was not able to deliver stable WiFi everywhere. Since then I have no more problems

@heiswinston
Bitvise has already been mentioned and if you have an Android SmartPhone or tablet, then the RaspController is a great tool
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=it.Ettore.raspcontroller
Beside file explorer, editor etc. also some GPIO ports are controllable or queryable. A camera (PiCamera or USB camera) can be queried and displayed directly. And a few sensors (e.g. climate) are already integrated and can be queried. And some more

@peterkatana
hallo Peter, damit habe ich leider recht wenig Erfahrung. Ich hatte zwar mal einen Monitor, der Farbstreifen produzierte, das geschah aber, als ich ihn in die Aussparung meiner AluDibond Platte einsetzte. Die Aussparung war an den Ecken zu eng und so habe ich das Panel beim Reindrücken beschädigt. Sowas ist praktisch nicht mehr zu heilen.
So wie ich Deinen Bericht lese, denke ich auch, dass es das Panel verzogen hat. Dann ist vermutlich nicht mehr viel zu retten. Aber wie gesagt, da bin ich Laie.
Vielleicht findest du in einem PC-Hardware Forum jemanden, der dir das genauer sagen kann.
Sorry, dass ich da nicht weiterhelfen kann.
Viele Grüße
Sepp

@lxne Thanks!
yes they are just glued
you see my method of glueing better in this post https://forum.magicmirror.builders/topic/9154/bathroom-magic-mirror
No, I don’t use chrome spy, I bought the mirrors here https://www.glas-star.de/spionspiegelnachmass/chrome-spy-spiegel/

Hi all,

you could find a 3D model here

Regards
Josef

Hi everybody,

and here are the photos of the interior of the right door:

The screen is already fixed through the cutout of the Alu Dibond plate. With a little tape it is actually already fixed enough. For safety I have attached 4 angles, which press it additionally in. The Raspberry is mounted on a 3D printed plate. The cable routing is done via damp room cable boxes.

right door - interieur

right door - interieur

@cyberphox Thanks for the compliments!

@OberfragGER
Thanks for the compliments!
I will put the radar sensor outside the body either on top or on the bottom. I have printed a white housing for it with the 3D printer, which I can mount accordingly. Let’s see where it responds better

Hi @binog ,
here is a picture of the back

The wiring still has to be done. This is only the temporary solution. The cords you can see on the photo are currently used for stabilization, because the MagicAlibert is very “door-heavy”.

I can only provide a picture of the mounted Raspberry Pi later, when I have removed the back of the door again.

@nickthebeer

What’s the toilet roll etc on the display for

Hi, thats the module for the bring list app: https://github.com/rseidt/MMM-bringList