The Pi itself doesn’t drain much power. It is suggested to use a 2.5A power supply to utilize the 4 USB ports. A PIR sensor or a microphone consume close to no power. So I am pretty sure 1A should be enough already. I know in my case the Pi drains 560mA at max, running MM (using WIFI, USB keyboard dongle, temperature sensor and PIR sensor).
I am using a 0,20€ 3A buck converter for my Pi, which is powered by the 12V power supply for my LCD. Runs flawlessly for 3 months now continuously.
@alvesge said in Order for Switzerland:
MirroView 50/50
Where are you going to buy the mirror? I have the normal MirroView and it isn’t working very well because the room is too bright. Since I am already living in Germany I could probably order it by myself. Just need to know where to get it from as I couldn’t find any shop that sells it online.
@codyS75 Yes. The 8mm hole perfectly fits the sensor. Drill the 3mm hole first. This way you can use it as the center point to drill the 8mm hole.
@j.e.f.f said in MMM-PIR-Sensor:
@codyS75 The way I set up mine was I removed the dome over the sensor, and drilled a small (2-3mm) hole in the frame. The sensor is mounted behind the hole and can only “see” directly forward. This works really well, since you only want the PIR sensor to be triggered when someone is standing right in front of the mirror. And the you don’t have to see the ugly dome either!
I did the same. I drilled a 3mm hole through the frame and on the inside half way through a 8mm hole which holds the PIR sensor. Works incredibly well. A radar sensor CAN be a better solution, but keep in mind it works 360° and also through thin walls. It didn’t work well for me. Got too many unwanted triggers. A metal enclosure could have solved the problem but the PIR was the easier way to go.
Glass reflects IR light. The PIR sensor will most likely not work behind the mirror. As for the camera: it probably depends on how much light passes through the mirror. Which again depends where the mirror is located. I am not using a camera but could imagine that you won’t get satisfactory results.
My PIR sensor is behind the wooden frame in which I drilled a 8mm/3mm hole. The 8mm hole only goes halfway through the wood to house the sensor without the lens (= the sphere) and the 3mm hole allows the sensor to see. Not sure if that’s clear to understand…
I think more information is needed. Did you run the script with sudo rpifan -t 55 or sudo rpifan --maxtemp 55?
I finally received my replacement mirror and it has no defects. So basically I got two mirrors for 48€ incl. shipping. The first has only a tiny defect which makes it still usable for a second mirror.
My frame is also almost done. I just painted it a second time and I am now waiting for the paint to dry. Next week I should be able to put everything together.
Sure it works. I just proposed the other one because it’s very compact and I thought that was important. Use the once you already have to save costs as long as it suits you. It’s powerful enough if those values are correct.
Especially those black power bricks can be of very bad quality. Run your mirror setup for a few hours and check that the power supply isn’t getting too hot.
@hoofta My mirror isn’t done yet but in my case the relay will disconnect the power from the power supply to the LCD. I have no idea what TV you’re using but you could solder 2 wires to the power button of your TV and connect them to a relay, which will be triggered by a PIR motion sensor.
@hoofta Couldn’t you use a relay (like me) but instead of disconnecting the power you just trigger the power on/off button?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-LM2596-power-Supply-Buck-Converter-step-down-module-NEW-CA/142147326064?hash=item2118a41070:g:L1kAAOSwvzRXzOBg
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-down-Regulator-Converter-4-2-23v-to-3V-3-3V-5V-9V-12V-24V-Module/112472493337?hash=item1a2fe20d19:g:dCsAAOSwdd9aVjD6
should do. They are adjustable via a potentiometer. Iam using the latter one for a Pi Zero but the 3A are enough to power a Pi3 easily. You should check aliexpress.com since most of the low priced parts already come from China. They will be even cheaper and are the very same product.
Don’t be afraid to ask…
Pic says more than a thousand words…
You can solder the wires together but that’s not really needed.
You split the 12V output of your power supply. One set of wires (plus and Gnd) goes to your LCD controller board (check polarity!) and one set to your step-down-converter, which is regulated to 5.1V for the Pi.
That should be enough for all if you don’t have more than the LCD, Raspberry Pi and the step-down module. You should check the power consumption of the LED strips, if you’re planning to use some. If not, you should be good with 30W.
Yeah, I saw after I replied. I checked the datasheet and if I do not misunderstand the information, your screen should be at around 10W (max.). The board will probably take some, too. But you should be more than fine with a 30W power supply.
Here’s an example from my LCD that I am going to use for my mirror
The M240HW01 V.D. is the LCD model and AU Optronics is the manufacturer.
Btw, for the future: A V56 or V59 controller board are already available for less than 8€ incl. shipping and the firmware can be changed easily by USB. It has other disadvantages though, like not waking up automatically once the HDMI port is re-activated.
Ah ok, I also of one of these to fire an old Laptop LCD for a digital picture frame.Now we need to know the type of the LCD. You can write it when you’re back home and I’ll look at it asap. Probably tomorrow since it’s already 7pm here.
I can’t open that link because it links to your personal order details.
Edit: If it’s a universal LCD controller board (like the V29, V56, or V59), then it also depends what LCD panel you’re using? Can you give me the panel number? Should be a sticker on the back of it. I’ll have a look at the datasheet.