Read the statement by Michael Teeuw here.
Pilkington mirror and Silicone
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@johnnyboy said in Pilkington mirror and Silicone:
tell me if it will show through any Silicone used from behind?
Is it clear silicone? Then maybe. Is it colored (white) silicone. Probably not.
My opinion -
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Shine On You Crazy Diamond - Pink Floyd
Hell yeah! I’m a fan. I gotta set up my signature now. I can’t have you doing something I’ve not already done. :wink:
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@johnnyboy well, Really? I have a pilkington mirropane chrome, I’m gluing the aluminum frame on the outside with epoxy. But then again the frame covers the area that is glued.
And I intend to cover the entire back of the mirror panel with vinyl except for where the screen is, obviously.So I shouldn’t see anything except the reflection when in normal conditions.
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@johnnyboy I suppose the 50/50 mirror has a really high light transmission, and in that case I think it would shine through. But If you keep the glue/silicone under the cover frame You shouldn’t see it at all.
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@johnnyboy How about a L profile frame (10mm by 10mm?) in stainless steel?
Should be easy enough to weld the edges and then just drop the mirror in and fixate it with som small tabs?That way no silicone or glue is needed, and If by unfortunate event the mirror is broken, it would be easy peasy just dropping a new one in.
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@johnnyboy if you do a good seem on the outside and grind it down flush I think it still would have enough bond left to hold the frame together.
I’m going all epoxy glue and hope it holds, my 120x60cm 6mm mirror also has a bit of weight :D
I went with a 15x40mm aluminium L profile, inside that I’ll glue a wooden mdf frame to the profiles so I’m counting on that the amount of glued surface will make it hold together.
I have the profiles glued to the mirror as of now, and hopefully I will have the mdf frame made and bonded today.
Here is a potato picture of the frame now :
Quick note, I’m not going to apply glue on the side with the coating since I was told by my Glass guy that some coating and some glues doesn’t like each other, didn’t want to risk it. Even if the coated side have slightly better reflection propertys.
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@johnnyboy the frame is beeing glued to the aluminium right now, used a new glue and it takes for ever to cure.
My plan is to go over the aluminium with some 400-800-1200 wet sanding and then a polish wheel to get it somewhat uniform in surface texture.
It scratches fairly easy, as aluminium does, I’ve managed to make some nicks to it miself during assembly.
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@johnnyboy So what I settled for was to start with 400 wet to get rid of the worst scratches and then went over it all with 800 wet, and I’m probably leaving it there, it got that more brushed look which will fit in with the stainless sink below it. But If you want it more shiny this is the way to go and then 1200 wet and a polish after that!
my MDF frame is 16mm thick and 46mm deep, and as you can see the screen fixture is pretty basic (layed it all down and glued in some spare MDF bits around the screen) But this way it will stay fixed and I can still remove the entire monitor with ease for installation in the house later on.
I’m fixing the glass and the frame to the box with 2pc 50cm piano-hinges at the top and several magnets at the bottom (so the mirror will be easy to open to access the PI and everything else.
I used 2 comp Epoxy to fix the aluminium to the glass, didn’t get it perfect so I also filled the tiny gaps in the corners with some “liquid metal”, which basically is polyester and aluminium dust. Still a color difference, but at least no gaps.
I then used a glue called BT Multibond, which is a flexible glue, more like silicone, leaves a rubbery feel when cured. To fix the MDF frame to the glass and aluminium.
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@broberg Why is there a motorcycle in your living room? ;-)
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@Mykle1 Because the garage is full with other motorcycles … ;)
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