Slim, Frameless Bathroom Mirror with a 27" Display

[reaper81]

@doubleT

During the bathroom planning was only a backlit mirror planned with cable for light.
This we have reconnected to continuous current. An surface-mounted shaft would never be an option.

[reaper81]

@MyMirror

I do not use a PIR sensor. I use the RCWL-0516 radar sensor. It is PIN compatible too the standard PIR sensors and cheap. However, if you connect it upside down, it burns immediately. That happened to me twice.

[bhepler]

Fantastic job, @reaper81. That looks like a professional installation.

[schlachtkreuzer6]

Looks great! :)

For attachment to the wall without columns but with adjustment I have made hanging bars. Alternatively, there are now IKEA rails with adjustment options.

What rails do you use (link)? That seems to be a really nice idea!

[reaper81]

@schlachtkreuzer6

if you mean the aluminum profile, they are from led-konzept. A realy nice shop, with lots of ideas all around led.

[schlachtkreuzer6]

@reaper81 said in Slim, Frameless Bathroom Mirror with a 27" Display:

@schlachtkreuzer6

if you mean the aluminum profile, they are from led-konzept. A realy nice shop, with lots of ideas all around led.

No^^the parts for hanging, with the adjustment option from ikea :)

[reaper81]

@schlachtkreuzer6

the conzept is called frence cleat. if they are well done, you can hang your mirror on the wall whitout any gap.

my rails are handcrafted and not so good.

My timber was too thick for the circular saw. If you use the ikea besta rails it is much easier and you get probably better results.

[schlachtkreuzer6]

@reaper81
Ah I see. Thanks!

[Relic]

This looks like exactly what I want to do! I have one question though, how did you attach the wood frame to the glass? Looks great btw:)

[MyMirror]

Hi reaper81,
same question from my site:
how did you attach the mirror to the wooden frame to make it look frameless? Can you provide us some pictures and tipps?

[MyMirror]

One more :-)
Can you explain the first picture a bit more? What are the individual boxes and connections that can be seen in the picture?

[reaper81]

@Relic

The wood frame ist glued with the strongest intallation glue i could find. in my case it was soudal fix all high track.

The consistency of this glue is very tough, so i had to spread it with a spatula on the frame. Before this i had roughen the foil on the glas with sandpaperfor more gluegrip.

After one day with a lot of weight on the frame the glue was harden.

[reaper81]

@ MyMirror

Before finishing the project, i had to rearange some prarts a little bit of the mirror, because i needed some space for the hanging rails. So don’t wonder.

1. 220V AC Connection
2. 220V AC Mainswitch
3. 220V AC branching dose
4. 24V LED-power adapter
5. LED-Controller with radioreceiver
6. LED-stripes
7. monitor-power adapter mit HDMI-connection
8. monitor
9. 5V power adapter for Raspberry Pi und Bluetooth-Speaker
10. raspberry Pi
11. networkcable for Raspberry Pi
12. cameramodul for useridentification
13. radarsensor zur userdetection
14. voltage converter für Bluetooth-speaker from 5V to 3.3V
15. bluetoothreceiver/ -amplifier für exciter
16. button zur connect Bluetoothreceiver und smartphone
17. volumen Up Button for the Bluetoothreceiver
18. volumen Down Button for the Bluetoothreceiver
19. exciter (speaker)
20. memorycard for the raspi with a backupimage

[Vancete]

WOW. It look georgeous.

[MyMirror]

Very good - thanks for sharing!

[schlachtkreuzer6]

Thank you for all your informations! So last question ^^ how is the sound with the exciters? Maybe we need here a YouTube video 😁😁

[MyMirror]

… and a few more from my site :-)

• Can you show us, how do you dismantled the foot
  and how do you attach the power cable on the screen?
• What about the temperature of the monitor? Will not be too hot in the tight construction?
• Do you apply black foil on the back side of the mirror to improve the mirror effect?

Thanks for all your tips and pictures!

[MyMirror]

and did you get that:
–> recall off PDS241/271

[reaper81]

@schlachtkreuzer6

“…how is the sound with the exciters?”

Let me put it this way, the exciter sound better than the sound from the phone.
But you should not promise too much. The bass is quite good but high frequencies, as for the voices go under.
I can only speculate if stronger exciters in conjunction with a stronger amp would help here. The main reason for
the use of the exciter was the ease of installation and the small depth. If the mirror was not as flat as possible
I should have used real speakers with their own acoustic cabinet.

[reaper81]

@MyMirror

“…Can you show us, how do you dismantled the foot…”
Sorry but i have no pictures from the dismantling the foot. But is realy easy. All you have to do is remove the back of the palstik from the monitor, which is held with plastic noses. It is best to use a slightly wider spatula or car interior tool. Then you can already see the three screws with which the foot on the monitor screwed. In the end, only the monitor foot has to be screwed on to get the cable out of it.

“…What about the temperature…”
I do not know if the monitor temperature will be a problem in the future. If so, ventilation holes could still be drilled in the upper part of the frame.

“…apply black foil on the back side…”
No, the black film is there to reflect incident light just as the black monitor does. If I did not do that, I would have a darker reflection in the area of the monitor than in the areas without a monitor.