Bathroom Magic Mirror

lavolp3

@spitzlbergerj OK so you’re using the Mirropane Chrome Spy there I assume.
Going to order that as well since I have the feeling it’s the best glass for a well lit bath.

Thanks for the Alu Dibond tip.

PaulB

@spitzlbergerj Moin Sepp, danke für dein Feedback.
Werde es mal meiner Freundin vorschlagen… vllt wird das ja was :-D

Viele Grüße aus Hamburg,
Paul

michael5r

@spitzlbergerj Super nice build!

If you don’t mind, a couple of questions:

Seeing that you screwed the Dibond panel into the wood frame, did you cover up the screw holes afterwards or are they just not visible through the glass?
I didn’t see any brackets or bracing in the photos, so how are you actually holding the monitor in place?

Thanks!

spitzlbergerj

@michael5r Good morning,
I’ll be happy to answer the questions:

I did not cover the screws. You still can’t see them through the glass.
If you want to be sure, it should be sufficient to paint the screws with a black permanent marker.
The only thing you see at the moment (if you know where to look ;-) ) is a small gap between the wooden frame and the silicone. At this point I apparently didn’t press the glass on well enough when I glued it to the frame. But that’s a little something.

The monitor is actually already being fixed by the cutout in the Dibond plate. I adapted the cutout very exactly to the size of the screen. With an adhesive tape around it this is then sufficiently fixed. But I finally screwed two small angles to the wooden frame, which hold the monitor securely in the cutout of the panel. This is now doubly secure.

Another tip about the motion detector (see also the supplement above in the text):
In addition to the cutout for the monitor, I would now have an additional small cutout for the radar board (20 x 40 mm) made. The radar detector works perfectly, but unfortunately not through the Dibond plate. I had to fix it at the bottom of the frame. That’s OK, but it would have been perfect behind the mirror glass.

Many greetings

Sepp

acdacd2

Hello,

very nice and waf.

How did you fix the mirror on the wood ?

Thanks,

marc,

spitzlbergerj

@acdacd2 Hi, thank you very much.
The mirror glass is glued with silicone. The groove in the frame serves this purpose. See also the pictures/photos 3, 8 as well as 17 and 18.

SimtechBen

Very Nice Mirror! Quality work. Can you tell me how you wired up the radar sensor and where you finally placed it? I am assuming that you are using it to turn the screen on and off. What module did you use for that? I cannot get mine to trigger reliably.

bhepler

Excellent work! That is a really sharp looking mirror. And you obviously planned out a lot ahead of time. I especially love the cutouts for the angle brackets in the corners. That is some serious attention to detail.

spitzlbergerj

@bhepler Thank you. Yes, I’ve planned a long time. The mirror should be allowed to hang in the bathroom :-)

spitzlbergerj

@simtechben Hi, I connected the radar sensor like a PIR sensor and followed this description in the broadest sense (https://www.nils-snake.de/archives/magic-mirror-bewegungssensor-einbauen-teil-5). I adapted the script to my needs. But the logic is still as described in the article.
Now I glued the radar sensor outside in the middle of the lower frame board with white tape. So it lies horizontally on the frame at the bottom. Not optimal in alignment, but it works and my wife agreed ;-)
As described above, I would simply place it behind the mirror if there was no Dibond plate or if it had a corresponding cutout.

Ramez

really nice :) just a small question, how did you mount it to the bath wall? you drilled the wall for some hings or what?

many thanks :thumbs_up:

spitzlbergerj

@ramez Hi,
Thank you for your kind words of praise.
On picture 7 you can see my assembly construction. I use the same principle as for a kitchen wall cabinet. A rail is mounted on the wall. The construction hangs then with special fittings on this rail. The advantage of these fittings is that they are height-adjustable and depth-adjustable. This makes exact positioning possible. This is very good for drilling between tiles, because you should only drill in the joints.
I then fastened the frame itself with screws from above through the frame into the substructure (see picture 24).
Here are the links:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MPZM5ER/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BDR8K32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

cowboysdude

Excellent job!

secdude

@spitzlbergerj Hi, i’m planing to adapt that concept and plan for the respective cutout. Did you test the radar sensor through the mirror glas? Has it proven to work through Glas?

Gruesse aus DE,
Mat

spitzlbergerj

@secdude Hi,
no, I did not test the radar sensor properly through glass, because I had already installed the dibond plate. I’m pretty sure that the sensor will work well through glass alone or through glass with black cardboard behind… Of course I can’t give you a guarantee. However, my experiences with the sensor make this seem very, very likely.

secdude

@spitzlbergerj Danke fuer die Einschaetzung :)

bachoo786

@spitzlbergerj hi well done and looks amazing.
Quick question:

Can you not glue the mirror using the silicone on the back panel directly? Rather using the groove in the wood? Is it possible?
The back panel how is it holding the monitor? I read your comment that you have your back panel cut around the monitor and it fits in perfectly and tightly. How and where did you apply the glue tape ?
Finally do you have any distortions of your image from your mirror? Especially around the edges where you have your silicone in the groove and the mirror? Because the blackness of the groove is different from the back panel and as well as the monitor?

Thanks.

spitzlbergerj

Hi @bachoo786 ,

Thanks for the praise. My pleasure. I’ll be happy to answer any questions.

It’s probably possible. But I wanted a larger amount of silicone to hold the heavy mirror. If you only glue the mirror to the panel, the silicone is only applied very thinly if you don’t want the mirror to protrude too much.
The cut-out in the back panel matches the monitor very closely. This holds the monitor in a vertical position. The tape just has to make sure that the monitor does not tilt backwards out of the cutout. I simply stuck the tape on the panel all around the monitor. Later I still screwed small metal angles on the top and bottom of the wooden frame, which press slightly on the monitor.
The mirror shows no distortion. You can’t see the back panel or the silicone. There is only one spot on the top edge of the mirror (which can only be found if you look very closely and find it once :-) ) where you can see the silicone bead. At this place I was very sparing with the silicone. Therefore you can see the wooden frame at this place, when light falls from above into the gap between mirror and wooden frame.

I hope this helps.

Why are you asking about the groove? Don’t you have a way to make the grooves? If you like, I can mill and send you the frame. We would have to calculate the costs of shipping and then see if it’s worth it.

Greetings
Sepp

bachoo786

@spitzlbergerj thank you for answering.

essentially its the silicone thats holding the mirror currently, I mean the groove does support it and hold it tight also. The reason why I asked about the groove is because I wanted to use the silicone alone and as you mentioned that the silicone is not see through or staining the mirror so you could use essentially alot of silicone to stick it to the back panel.
that makes sense.
I was under the impression that the mirror has to be covered with even blackness from one side in order for it to display the correct non distorted image on the mirror, so even the slightest can cause the image to distort especially around the groove in your case.

How big is the frame? and how much do you think it would roughly cost to ship it to the UK? if its not worth it then can you tell me how you made the groove on the wood? I mean like you mentioned the groove holds the mirror stronger in addition to the silicone.

spitzlbergerj

@bachoo786: You are right, it is important that no stray light falls on the spy mirror from behind. But the back plane does that very well. If the silicone is in the groove all the way around, the image from the MagicMirror screen is without any interference.

The groove was milled with a milling table in two steps. First the deep groove was milled on the outside of the frame. Then the second groove was milled on the side of the frame facing the inside.

The size of the frame naturally depends on how large the mirror is to be at the end. My mirror is about 1 meter by 1/2 meter.

Shipping to UK should cost about 25 EUR (see https://www.dhl.de/versand-grossbritannien)