Bathroom Magic Mirror

[spitzlbergerj]

My first MagicMirror is now finished and mounted in our bathroom.

The following requirements had to be fulfilled:

• maximum woman acceptance factor
• minimum depth
• rimless mirror
• Mounting a LED light bar
• Integration into my Homematic installation
• Button to reboot the Raspberry pi
• Button for further control tasks
• Motion control

I have planned the mirror with SketchUp:

Picture 1:

Picture 2:

Picture 3:
Fräsung für Silikonfuge/Milling groove for silicone joint

Picture 4:

Picture 5:

Picture 6:

Picture 7: (wall mount)

I used beechwood

Picture 8:

Picture 9:

Picture 10:

Picture 11:

Picture 12:

Photos of the assembly

Picture 13:

Picture 14:

Picture 15:

Picture 16:

Picture 17:

Picture 18:

Picture 19:

Picture 20:

Picture 21:

To connect the mirror to the power, I use a “cold device plug” (C13/C14 coupler). I split the former extension cable in the middle.

And that’s how the mirror looks finished

Picture 22:

Picture 23:

Picture 24:

The following websites helped me with the construction and the configuration

https://www.heise.de/ct/hotline/Ein-Ausschalter-fuer-Raspberry-Pi-und-Raspi-Zero-3892620.html?wt_mc=print.ct.2017.25.150
https://webnist.de/python-script-auf-dem-raspberry-pi-automatisch-starten/
https://pi-buch.info/hdmi-ausgang-unkompliziert-ein-und-ausschalten/
https://www.nils-snake.de/archives/magic-mirror-bewegungssensor-einbauen-teil-5

I have used:

• Raspberry pi 3
• Beech wood from the hardware store
• Aluminium composite panel (ACP) with cutout (https://www.plattenzuschnitt24.de/ - german: Alu Dibond Platte)
• Spy mirror (https://www.glas-star.de/spionspiegelnachmass/chrome-spy-spiegel/)
• Silicone (PCI Silcofern S) Color: black (Important! Never use transparent silicone. Otherwise you will see it and regret it!)
• Screen (HP 22w (1CA83AA) 54.6 cm (21.5 inch) monitor (IPS, Full HD, HDMI) https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B0732RBR3J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc = 1)
• Radar motion detector (Amazon Haljia 5 RCWL-0516)

To fix the frame to the wall I use fittings as they are also used in the assembly of kitchen wall cabinets (see also picture 7). These are height-adjustable and depth-adjustable. The frame is fastened there over a vertical screw from above by the frame at the substructure. (see picture 24). I used these parts:
rail: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MPZM5ER/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fitting left: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BDR8JV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fittign right: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BDR8K32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Download the Sketchup File

Addendum to the motion detector - radar detector:
In addition to the cutout for the monitor, I would now have an additional small cutout for the radar board (20 x 40 mm) made. The radar detector works perfectly, but unfortunately not through the Dibond plate. I had to fix it at the bottom of the frame. That’s OK, but it would have been perfect behind the mirror glass.

[Mykle1]

Very impressive.

[cyberphox]

wow that is nice!

[yawns]

Nice end result, well done. Your woodwork looks very professional

[PaulB]

WOW! That looks so professional. Great work. Hope you have a lot of fun with the mirror :)

[qu1que]

Wow!! I like your mirror a lot. Impressive the final result. What are the buttons for?

[spitzlbergerj]

@qu1que Thanks a lot for your post.

The bottom button boots the Raspberry in a safe way (without simply turning off the power)

The top button controls the lights in the bathroom via a homematic webservice.

[PaulB]

@spitzlbergerj
I love your work. Could you recommend any tipps on how to build a mirror in the bath? I would like to do this as my next project. So are there any Best Practices regarding any silicone or electronics?.
Greetings from Germany :)

[spitzlbergerj]

@paulb Hallo Paul,
das Silicon, das ich verwendet habe, habe ich im Post angegeben. Der Spionspiegel verlangt ein spezielles Silicon (neutralvernetzend), damit die Beschichtung nicht angelöst wird. Und ansonsten habe ich Standard-Komponenten verwendet. Durch die Lüftungsöffnungen erhoffe ich mir eine bessere Belüftung. Bisher konnte ich keine Probleme feststellen.
Grüße
Sepp

[lavolp3]

@spitzlbergerj Impressive mirror!
Especially like the lighting solution.
What glass did you use? (also from Germany here)
What is the material you have used for the backplate?

[spitzlbergerj]

Hi @lavolp3,
I bought the LED light bar here
As described in the last section of the article, I purchased the mirror from Glas-Star.de and the Aluminium composite panel (ACP - german: Alu Dibond) from plattenzuschnitt24.de as my backplate.

The Aluminium composite panel is 4 mm thick and serves as a “black background” and as a mounting surface for all installations. It also stiffens the wooden frame on which I screwed the plate.
greetings
Sepp

[lavolp3]

@spitzlbergerj OK so you’re using the Mirropane Chrome Spy there I assume.
Going to order that as well since I have the feeling it’s the best glass for a well lit bath.

Thanks for the Alu Dibond tip.

[PaulB]

@spitzlbergerj Moin Sepp, danke für dein Feedback.
Werde es mal meiner Freundin vorschlagen… vllt wird das ja was :-D

Viele Grüße aus Hamburg,
Paul

[michael5r]

@spitzlbergerj Super nice build!

If you don’t mind, a couple of questions:

1. Seeing that you screwed the Dibond panel into the wood frame, did you cover up the screw holes afterwards or are they just not visible through the glass?

2. I didn’t see any brackets or bracing in the photos, so how are you actually holding the monitor in place?

Thanks!

[spitzlbergerj]

@michael5r Good morning,
I’ll be happy to answer the questions:

1. I did not cover the screws. You still can’t see them through the glass.
   If you want to be sure, it should be sufficient to paint the screws with a black permanent marker.
   The only thing you see at the moment (if you know where to look ;-) ) is a small gap between the wooden frame and the silicone. At this point I apparently didn’t press the glass on well enough when I glued it to the frame. But that’s a little something.

2. The monitor is actually already being fixed by the cutout in the Dibond plate. I adapted the cutout very exactly to the size of the screen. With an adhesive tape around it this is then sufficiently fixed. But I finally screwed two small angles to the wooden frame, which hold the monitor securely in the cutout of the panel. This is now doubly secure.

Another tip about the motion detector (see also the supplement above in the text):
In addition to the cutout for the monitor, I would now have an additional small cutout for the radar board (20 x 40 mm) made. The radar detector works perfectly, but unfortunately not through the Dibond plate. I had to fix it at the bottom of the frame. That’s OK, but it would have been perfect behind the mirror glass.

Many greetings

Sepp

[acdacd2]

Hello,

very nice and waf.

How did you fix the mirror on the wood ?

Thanks,

marc,

[spitzlbergerj]

@acdacd2 Hi, thank you very much.
The mirror glass is glued with silicone. The groove in the frame serves this purpose. See also the pictures/photos 3, 8 as well as 17 and 18.

[SimtechBen]

Very Nice Mirror! Quality work. Can you tell me how you wired up the radar sensor and where you finally placed it? I am assuming that you are using it to turn the screen on and off. What module did you use for that? I cannot get mine to trigger reliably.

[bhepler]

Excellent work! That is a really sharp looking mirror. And you obviously planned out a lot ahead of time. I especially love the cutouts for the angle brackets in the corners. That is some serious attention to detail.

[spitzlbergerj]

@bhepler Thank you. Yes, I’ve planned a long time. The mirror should be allowed to hang in the bathroom :-)