@bachoo786 thanks for the compliments!
The IPS panes are more expensive and have certainly a somewhat better contrast compared to VA panels. But as the panels are built behind a refelctive surface (=mirror) at the end, that difference in contrast probably won’t be recognizable and won’t justify the higher expense for the IPS panel. I was quite lucky to get the VA panel in 24" for a very good price on ebay. Otherwise I would have taken a “normal” TN panel like many, many others. If you can get a VA panel for a good price then take it, and save the money you’d spend for an IPS.

Since I “released” my V1.0 of my MM, I spent it a few new modules, dropped others, made some refinements and optimizations and replaced the ugly PIR sensor with a microwave sensor.
Since last week I am drafting the v2.0 which won’t be another mirror, but a significant upgrade of my existing one. I’ll keep the mirror and the panel, but will modify the frame. Currently, I don’t want to disclose too much, as I am still evaluating various options and feasability. And finally, it should be also a little surprise for the community ;-)

@broberg Thanks for that info! I’ve been already tempted to give that a try in a future upgrade. :thinking_face:

@BD0G No worries, such things happened to me, too. 😁

@BD0G you‘re mixing something up…MMM-Xmas is not displaying snow flakes, but blinking lights. What you mean is MMM-Snow.

@cowboysdude found your module yesterday and installed it. The kids and me love it!

@SARCux simply put following option into the clock module

displayType: "both", // options: digital, analog, both

@SARCux wenn du das default Wetter Modul meinst, dann kannst du je nach Anbieter der Wetterdaten die Option ‚coloured‘ (true oder false) in die Config einsetzen. Schau auch mal in die Beschreibungen der default modules. Ich nutze das MMM-MyWeather Modul, weil es mir persönlich etwas besser gefällt ( reine Geschmacksache).

@cowboysdude Great News, excellent!👍🏻

@35110 hast du es schon mal mit dem Installations Script von @sdetweil probiert?
Damit sollte es auf Anhieb funktionieren.

@Mykle1 said

Dude, (can I call you dude?) although I don’t use a sensor (I have a cam on my first mirror w/Pi) I appreciate what you’ve done here. I’ll say it again (in different words), I think this is the death knell of the PIR sensor. So, thanks. :thumbsup:

Sure, call me Dude, if you like😁

Let‘s get the warts outta here!🤣 and thanks for the overwhelming feedback!

@cowboysdude I‘m totally happy that I cold help and to receive so positive feedback! I love it when a plan works!😁 Thanks!
This T-shaped holder, is it 3D-printed or an off-the-shelf available part? It‘s totally cool!

Hi folks,

sooner than expected I modified the sensor with a trimmer resistor.
For that I also updated my initial post and enhanced the tutorial, where now both options are described. Enjoy and give me your feedback, how that works for you.

@cowboysdude
You only use Vin (5V), Vout and GND. CDS (for applying a photo diode) and 3V3 (delivers 3.3V output) remain unused. For Vout you can use also oher GPIO pins (labeled “Digital I/O” in the 2nd diagram), in case GPIO_4 is already used.

The ferrite bead is optional. It is a left over from the PIR sensor I had attached. If you may need one, you can dismantle an old VGA cable and use that one.
Here the wireing diagram:

@tanvir586 I took my Echo dot, plugged it into the RPi‘s USB port and I was done. Not so cool, but works. For my upgrade I‘ll have a look at MMM-Alexa Control.

@tanvir586 thanks a lot!

@tanvir586 here is my presentation with details

@tanvir586 I know… I currently assemble parts to upgrade mine. You’re never done!

@Mrr The thickness of the glass does not affect the display, as transmission is refelctiveness is determined by the special cover on the surfaces of the glass. But it mak as huge difference in the weight of glass.
Eg. I have a 4mmx50cmx70cm Pilkington Mirropane Chrome Spy which which weighs 3.5 kg. The 6mm version would weigh already 5.5 kg and had cost 30€ more. That said, just 2mm on these dimensions cause +2kg + nearly 50% more costs!
So if you have now stability constrains, then 4mm are fine. Otherwise, if you need -due to constructional constraints of the frame- more stability, then go for 6mm.

@Mrr I’d second what @Mykle1 said. In the long run glass is the way to go, although it costs more. But the results are unmatched compared to film. It would be a pitty to save money on the wrong end. What size of the display are you talking?

Congrats to your first one! It looks really awsome!