@jimbydude Update I used this guide to setup calibration: https://www.thingsconnected.io/raspberry-pi-7-inch-touch-screen-calibration/ Also, despite the manufacturer saying only supports 1 point on Linux, I definitely see multi-point, tried with six fingers using this site: https://paveldogreat.github.io/WebGL-Fluid-Simulation/

Update I used this guide to setup calibration: https://www.thingsconnected.io/raspberry-pi-7-inch-touch-screen-calibration/ Also, despite the manufacturer saying only supports 1 point on Linux, I definitely see multi-point, tried with six fingers using this site: https://paveldogreat.github.io/WebGL-Fluid-Simulation/

Maybe this module can help preventing burn in issues: https://github.com/Lavve/MMM-MagicMover

Are there any secret codes for LG TV…?

Just tried this out and works like a charm! Rihanna now sounds and looks as smooth as intended. Thanks for the quick and super helpful reply!!

@dhanushx012 I am like the guy who started this topic. I can’t just blank the screen by turning the hdmi output off on the pi. And, I can’t power off the monitor using CEC commands. Even though I am using a HDMI instead of VGA I have the simililar issues. Q: why not turn hdmi output off? A: Because my tv monitor detects no hdmi signal and just has to scream at me about it with a not very cute logo and ugly text. There are no settings within the monitor to turn off that message. Q: Why not power the monitor on/off? A: I can’t power it off and on using the CEC commands because I also get a annoying message and logo from the monitor when it starts up. Q: why do you have to use that monitor when it’s easy to get another one that will work either way? A: I have to use a cheap VIZIO on sale for $32 US that I got. I don’t have a spare lcd panel around to use. Some of us can’t simply buy another monitor. We are using what we have. So far all together with my pi, my $32 monitor, and some cables, molding (frame), glass, and film and a gestures sensor for $2.50. I’ve managed to spend just around $120. Problem: Same as the guy who originally posted. I need the monitor to be on at all times and sending a signal because of the first two issues listed. So, I am trying to use the MMM-grove-gestures built in way to hide all the modules… but some of the modules don’t behave and turn themselves back on. Super annoying. I’m still debugging that. I think it is inside the currentweather and weatherforecast modules Solution: get the screen to turn black And getting it to do that is the crux of the problem.

No one can help ?

@earnestrichards 8 ball pool said in Monitor Disassmebly: I did a search on google and ifixit to see if I could get some guidance on getting the case off of my monitor and ran across this: Monitor Disassembly (http://h22235.www2.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/disassemblymonitors.html) for my HP monitor. Other manufacturers may have a similar resource… Thank you so much! It’s very helpful!

Hi sdetweil, thank you very much - I will give it a try! Best regards core

@Curtis777 I have tried with the foil, no way. Not reccomend

@Jagsi that is the problem. Remove plastic border from the screen. This will solve the problem.

@designs-by-Lucht recommend to use VA monitor. Best contrast , so real black during night and high white during day. Check this out *Both TN and IPS panels tend to have a contrast ratio around 1000:1, although in my testing I have noted some differences. TN panels tend to have the lowest contrast ratios when calibrated, with an entry-level panel sitting between 700:1 and 900:1 and good panels pushing up to that 1000:1 mark. IPS has a larger range, I’ve seen some as low as 700:1 like TNs, however the very best tend to push up higher than TN, with 1200:1 as the upper range for desktop monitors and some laptop-grade displays reaching as high as 1500:1. Neither TN nor IPS get to the range of VA though. Entry-level VA panels start with a contrast ratio of 2000:1 from those that I’ve tested, with the best easily exceeding 4500:1, although 3000:1 is a typical figure for most monitors. TVs make extensive use of VA panels and there contrast ratios can be even higher. It’s not unusual to see over 6000:1. So if you want deep blacks and high contrast ratios, you’ll need to go with something VA* Source https://www.techspot.com/amp/article/1788-display-tech-compared/

@sdetweil Ok, well I was thinking at first I would glue it, but I’ll get those small mirror brackets that just holds the edges. Is there a good kind of paint for the backside of it?

To add: I can also include 2-way glass with these frames for an added cost.

Hi, I just finished my first smartmirror project and I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0732S9XB9/ref=twister_B06Y2FYJ6V?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 which seemed a bit expensive. But now that I see there are a lot of different options and I was wondering If i could get some good links and what are the differences between film acrylic and glass. and what should I look for in terms of transparency.

@MadScientist 👍

I’ve gotten away with 2.4A on a Raspberry Pi 3B+, but that’s riding the edge of acceptable.

@sonicgoose said in Controller Board issue: The controller boards are soldered to output 16:9, but the display I had was natively set to 16:10. Soldered? I think the board was just shipped with the wrong firmware. Unfortunately for these boards you need extra flashing equipment to change the firmware.

FYI, it’s “Dual” Not “Due”. Might help you searching for answers in the future. 🙂