@animeman0 there’s too many variables to give you an answer as it depends on there following: is there an angle difference between the monitor and glass across the whole monitor space? What is the lighting like in the area? Where is the lighting in the area? What about natural light in the area?

The only wait to know for certain is for you to try it, can you try it without removing the protective film?

@earnestrichards said in Disassembly a Dell U2715H:

I had the same question when I started work on my ‘mirror’ earlier this summer. I had purchased a HP monitor and found a link for 3rd party recyclers to properly disassemble and recycle the various monitor parts.

I used the same search term (except Dell not HP) and found this:
Dell Monitor Disassembly

Thank you, 24h after my second email I got a perfect disassembly instruction. Unfortunately, the pdf is to big to upload it here.

@designs-by-Lucht recommend to use VA monitor. Best contrast , so real black during night and high white during day.

Check this out
*Both TN and IPS panels tend to have a contrast ratio around 1000:1, although in my testing I have noted some differences. TN panels tend to have the lowest contrast ratios when calibrated, with an entry-level panel sitting between 700:1 and 900:1 and good panels pushing up to that 1000:1 mark. IPS has a larger range, I’ve seen some as low as 700:1 like TNs, however the very best tend to push up higher than TN, with 1200:1 as the upper range for desktop monitors and some laptop-grade displays reaching as high as 1500:1.

Neither TN nor IPS get to the range of VA though. Entry-level VA panels start with a contrast ratio of 2000:1 from those that I’ve tested, with the best easily exceeding 4500:1, although 3000:1 is a typical figure for most monitors. TVs make extensive use of VA panels and there contrast ratios can be even higher. It’s not unusual to see over 6000:1. So if you want deep blacks and high contrast ratios, you’ll need to go with something VA*

Source https://www.techspot.com/amp/article/1788-display-tech-compared/

@hango oh this is really helpful, thank you!

It did work fine for the monitor I am using, right up to the point where I let the raspberry pi touch the metal portion of the back of the screen and shorted it (the reaspberry pi) out.
What I did learn is the area has to be clean as an operating room when you are cleaning the screen before you add the film or you for sure will get a crappy result.

MW

@j-e-f-f That is true…In my case I need more than the pi could handle.

@gismo2006 Hey, honestly if it wasn’t for the fact that you mentioned changing tvservice to vcgencmd I’d never have figured it out! Your brief commend put me on the right path to getting everything working, thank so you much!! If I run into any problems with vcgencmd in the future I’ll be sure to pm you :)

so far so good, no problems. so i can call it a fix for me.

Thanks

@romain said in turning monitor on by incoming call?:

Hopefully it was clear enough. I know it’s hard to understand that kind of stuff when you never did it before

It was wonderfully clear. I can barrel my way through some simple coding without really understanding how or why it’s working (or not working). Thanks for helping me to understand a little better.

Finally, I’ve finnished my script, and it works like a charm. I paste it here if someone else need it.

#!/usr/bin/python3 # PACKAGES NEEDED TO WORK: sudo apt install python3 python3-rpi.gpio # My screen has an USB port, that turns on when screen is on, and off when screen is off. # So, I made a voltage divider with a few resistors to get 3 volts, to activate pin 6 (BCM) # on the raspberry Pi. In this way, the script can 'know' if Screen is ON or OFF. import RPi.GPIO as GPIO import time import subprocess from subprocess import call GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM) GPIO.setup(22, GPIO.IN) # PIR's output GPIO.setup(6, GPIO.IN) # Screen power detector GPIO.setup(25, GPIO.OUT) # Relay Input GPIO.setwarnings(False) while (GPIO.input(6) == 0): # IF SCREEN IS ON if (GPIO.input(22) == 1): # PIR DETECTS MOTION call(('/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd', ' display_power', '1')) GPIO.output(25, GPIO.HIGH) # RELAY ACTIVATION time.sleep(3) GPIO.output(25, GPIO.LOW) time.sleep(60) # THE TIME WE WANT THE SCREEN TO STAY ON if (GPIO.input(22) == 1): # IF PIR DETECTS A NEW MOVEMENT, time.sleep(60) # ACTIVATES THE MIRROR ANOTHER AMOUNT OF SECONDS else: GPIO.output(25, GPIO.HIGH) # WITH THIS LINE, THE SCREEN POWERS OFF TO SAVE ENERGY time.sleep(3) GPIO.output(25, GPIO.LOW) else: GPIO.output(25, GPIO.LOW) while (GPIO.input(6) == 1): # IF SCREEN IS OFF if (GPIO.input(22) == 1): # PIR DETECTS MOTION call(('/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd', ' display_power', '1')) GPIO.output(25, GPIO.LOW) # SAME AS ABOVE, BUT THIS TIME DON'T ACTIVATE THE RELAY time.sleep(60) if (GPIO.input(22) == 1): time.sleep(60) else: GPIO.output(25, GPIO.HIGH) # WITH THIS LINE, THE SCREEN POWERS OFF TO SAVE ENERGY, AGAIN time.sleep(3) GPIO.output(25, GPIO.LOW) else: GPIO.output(25, GPIO.LOW) call(('/usr/bin/python3', '/home/pi/SCRIPTS/pir.py'))

@mizzoudavis I leave the bezel intact. Other area not covered by bezel (outside the monitor), you simply add black/dark tape/paper/paint.

Somebody knows how to find out the StationIDs from VVS?

Weiß jemand wie man die StationID bei VVS rausfindet?
Weil bei mir ändert der Link sich nicht mit.

Vielen Dank

@ZombieDE IMHO, no it’s not worth it. Unless you’re planning on using your Pi through the mirror for surfing, video or the like. But if you’re planning on going with the normal black and white theme for the mirror, it’s not worth the extra color fidelity. I’ve found that with a little fiddling of the monitor settings (contrast max, brightness 40%, etc.) you can remove any background bleed from the LED backlight.