ich habe eine andere (bessere) Lösung gefunden mit Hilfe von Xvfb. Mit Xvfb wird eine virtuelle X11 session gestartet und MM darauf angezeigt. Dann wird ein Screenshot vom framebuffer gemacht und auf dem ePaper angezeigt.
# Create Virtual MagicMirror Display
sudo apt update
sudo apt install xvfb
Xvfb :1 -screen 0 800x480x24 -fbdir /home/pi &
DISPLAY=:1 nohup npm start &
# Create Screenshot
cat /home/pi/Xvfb_screen0 | convert xwd:- bmp:/home/pi/screenshot.bmp
# Run Python Script to update ePaper Display
I used this guide to setup calibration:
Also, despite the manufacturer saying only supports 1 point on Linux, I definitely see multi-point, tried with six fingers using this site:
@dhanushx012 I am like the guy who started this topic. I can’t just blank the screen by turning the hdmi output off on the pi. And, I can’t power off the monitor using CEC commands. Even though I am using a HDMI instead of VGA I have the simililar issues.
Q: why not turn hdmi output off?
A: Because my tv monitor detects no hdmi signal and just has to scream at me about it with a not very cute logo and ugly text. There are no settings within the monitor to turn off that message.
Q: Why not power the monitor on/off?
A: I can’t power it off and on using the CEC commands because I also get a annoying message and logo from the monitor when it starts up.
Q: why do you have to use that monitor when it’s easy to get another one that will work either way?
A: I have to use a cheap VIZIO on sale for $32 US that I got. I don’t have a spare lcd panel around to use. Some of us can’t simply buy another monitor. We are using what we have. So far all together with my pi, my $32 monitor, and some cables, molding (frame), glass, and film and a gestures sensor for $2.50. I’ve managed to spend just around $120.
Problem: Same as the guy who originally posted. I need the monitor to be on at all times and sending a signal because of the first two issues listed. So, I am trying to use the MMM-grove-gestures built in way to hide all the modules… but some of the modules don’t behave and turn themselves back on. Super annoying. I’m still debugging that. I think it is inside the currentweather and weatherforecast modules
Solution: get the screen to turn black
And getting it to do that is the crux of the problem.
@earnestrichards 8 ball pool said in Monitor Disassmebly:
I did a search on google and ifixit to see if I could get some guidance on getting the case off of my monitor and ran across this: Monitor Disassembly (http://h22235.www2.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/disassemblymonitors.html) for my HP monitor.
Other manufacturers may have a similar resource…
Thank you so much! It’s very helpful!
@designs-by-Lucht recommend to use VA monitor. Best contrast , so real black during night and high white during day.
Check this out
*Both TN and IPS panels tend to have a contrast ratio around 1000:1, although in my testing I have noted some differences. TN panels tend to have the lowest contrast ratios when calibrated, with an entry-level panel sitting between 700:1 and 900:1 and good panels pushing up to that 1000:1 mark. IPS has a larger range, I’ve seen some as low as 700:1 like TNs, however the very best tend to push up higher than TN, with 1200:1 as the upper range for desktop monitors and some laptop-grade displays reaching as high as 1500:1.
Neither TN nor IPS get to the range of VA though. Entry-level VA panels start with a contrast ratio of 2000:1 from those that I’ve tested, with the best easily exceeding 4500:1, although 3000:1 is a typical figure for most monitors. TVs make extensive use of VA panels and there contrast ratios can be even higher. It’s not unusual to see over 6000:1. So if you want deep blacks and high contrast ratios, you’ll need to go with something VA*
ive got the ReSpeaker 4 Mic array installed on my new mirror along side MMM-GoogleAsistant and im wondering if its possible to use the leds (call a python program) at the different stages: Activate, Listen, Think, Speak like the real Assistants.
also has anyone any experience in programming these leds? i have a amazon and google example to work from but would be good to have some pointers
thanks again people
I just finished my first smartmirror project and I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0732S9XB9/ref=twister_B06Y2FYJ6V?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 which seemed a bit expensive. But now that I see there are a lot of different options and I was wondering If i could get some good links and what are the differences between film acrylic and glass. and what should I look for in terms of transparency.
@reniwqwil5 said in Questions about magic mirrors:
Hello I have a few questions about magic mirrors.
Most magic mirrors are lunar based. Does anyone have any experience of magic mirrors that are solar based?
Is it true that you have to make your own magic mirror and not purchase one or find one?
Has anyone put a familiar in a sigil or magic mirror? How did it turn out?
Alright so, I tried logging my account into Ps4 but when I press the “Sign in with a Microsoft Account” it says that it failed to log in and something went wrong. I restarted the console, and the game I got no idea what to do 10.0.0.0.1
I’d like to follow up on that topic. I’m really stuck with picking the right monitor to use. The deeper I get into it the more confused I get ;).
I’d like to use the following Ikea Frame https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ribba-frame-white-90378427/ (which is 12-16" or 30x40cm) which leaves me not a lot of depth to work with. Thus my idea was to salvage and use an old used laptop screen (around 17" -17.3") + a controller board.
But I can not really find any decent (brightness & contrast) and cheap option out there. Can you help me out and guide me into the right direction?
Or should I go with a normal screen from a monitor, and will it fit in the frame i am planning to use.