@Durnumosis Hi mate, sorry for late respond, been away, clock its default module mm.
my clock in config
{
module: ‘clock’,
position: ‘top_center’,
config: {
displayType: ‘analog’,
clockBold: ‘true’,
analogSize: ‘230px’,
analogFace: ‘face-008’,
secondsColor: ‘#bf1a1a’,
}
},

thanks

Amazing job!!! I like it!

@aimanyusof94

At least in my TV, the metal backing seemed to be the ground. All of the circuit boards were screwed into metal scaffolding which in turn was screwed to the metal backing.

The ground connections on the circuit boards were obvious. It’s basically where the screws connect the circuit board to the metal scaffolding. Here’s a close up of the top left corner of that orange circuit board:

0_1491098823961_ground.JPG

When the screw is in place, it makes contact with that bear-claw looking piece of metal. My understanding is that the various diodes, capacitors, and whatnots ground themselves through that. So, when I used those little plastic standoffs and the screws couldn’t reach, I used the wire to make the connections. If you can find long thin screws, they may work, too. I didn’t ground every one of the screw connections, just as many as I could. Seems to be enough.

The standoffs I bought were easy and built for this purpose. They have adhesive on the bottom, so they stick to the metal backing. Make sure whatever you use is non conductive.

I had to use wire to ground the orange power control board and the large green boards on the right (2 boards, but they’re connected).

The little board at the bottom is exactly as it was when I opened it up. If you zoom, you’ll see that the grounding screws in each corner connect to a little hill on the metal backing. That way it grounds, but keeps the circuits from shorting on the metal.

The board on the left controls the light panel. That one is also left as it was also.

Basically, if you remove enough of the metal scaffolding, you’ll need to make sure you: 1) keep the underside of the boards from touching metal, and 2) ground the boards somehow

Again, this was MUCH easier for 24 inch TVs. Also, - take pictures as you take it apart, so you can reference them later

Good luck!

@yawns @johnnyboy It’s not based on Michael’s code anymore, but our v1 used MM and a pi. Exactly as you both mentioned, we just needed a little more oomph in several areas.

@hartattack no worries, good luck! Happy to help where I can if you have questions

@fox thanks !! 😉

I guess we now have the youngest to make a MagicMirror. Congratulations to your son on a job most beautifully done and my commendations to you for being a fantastic father. You guys are awesome! :thumbsup_tone1:

@Timeeee I used a 18x14 glass it’s a the 19 in monitor is about 17.5 inches long so it’s a nice clean yet tight fit

@Mykle1 Thank you!

@mortenbirkelund
interglas.dk deliver their mirrors of high quality. They cut it incredibly accurate, to the spefikationer that I had ordered.

I find, however, that delivery costs at the high end

Since I do not have other mirror to compare with. I can not say whether it is a good mirror for the purpose. (But I myself am very satisfied with the result)

@Manmachine @bhepler
There are actually holes in the 2X4 frame underneath the vents on the monitor to help with overheating as seen here. As far as the pi is concerned, no problems so far.

Thanks, guys. It’s a 27" screen.

@tuzlabih This is pretty awesome, can you share some more details on how you did it all?

@broberg
I’m afraid I can’t add too many details.
The mirror I’ve used is this one:
https://www.glashandelonline.com/spiegels/confrontatiespiegel/confrontatiespiegel/
but it doesn’t indicate how much reflection/transmission it has (probably should’ve asked the shop first but I didn’t think about it untill I could test the mirror for the first time).
I also did a test with my phone behind the mirror, with its screen at maximum brightness and this gave pretty much the same effect so I think the problem is mainly due to the transmission of the mirror.

@DirkS awesome!!!

@foppa

I’m using http request in my LUA like that

local status,result = luup.inet.wget(“http://10.99.99.15:8080/TESTING”")

I also have a URLENCODE function to convert my string…

function urlencode(str) if (str) then str = string.gsub (str, "\n", "\r\n") str = string.gsub (str, "([^%w ])", function (c) return string.format ("%%%02X", string.byte(c)) end) str = string.gsub (str, " ", "%%20") end return str end

Hey,

i used a basic wooden frame and a 24 inch monitor.

Monitor
i used this monitor, because its very flat and had the perfect size for the 60x40cm glass:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01AJTVCA8

i did not remove any plastic from the monitor, so i can reuse the monitor if i want.

Glass
http://www.glas-per-klick.de/spiegel-antikspiegel/spionspiegel.html
(german website)

it has 3% opacity. For me it was important, that you can’t see the monitor that well (gray background light), so this one was a perfect choice. Maybe in an open room with sunlight you need more opacity.

What i may do
Silicon gap between mirror and wooden frame
Add motion sensor for energy saving purpose
Build some modules for smart home

Screenshots

2_1486835942201_mirror3.jpg
Ready mirror

1_1486835942201_mirror2.jpg
Back of the mirror

0_1486835942201_mirror1.jpg
For the front border i just used a wooden strip from my local shop

Hi Steve,

Can you give me some details on how you set it all up, I might do something like this with an iPad Pro. I haven’t seen much with Apple HomeKit and wanted to use a MM with HomeKit.