next issue: to reduce the empty space behind the LCD panel, I bought a 90 degrees DVI adapter. But I have noticed, my plug was DVI-D and I bought DVI-I.
Question: I don’t want to wait a week for a new one, can I remove few pins (esp. the 4 on the left) on my own? see picture below:
Thx for your help!
This seems like a better option, right?
Yeah, I assumed it would be a long shot. I also agree that the refresh flash for something like a clock would be pretty bad, I was thinking that you rarely stare at the mirror information for that long. That also means that using a more power hungry solution with PIR would likely be fine (as long as standby power is low).
Thanks for the reply
For me the weight would be an issue. However, you can use a standard TV wall mount to get around it. If you get rid of the exterior casing on the TV you can get a smaller “footprint” when paired with the mirror. Really though, like Sean said burn in will be your biggest enemy here. You could write something to have the modules swap places every now and then to try to prevent it, but given that there isn’t really much motion I think you’d end up regretting it. That said… it’s free. So, I figure you’ve got two options:
It’s a free TV the’s going to be a screen behind a mirror. How worried about it do you need to get… who cares right?
Sell it on Craigslist, Gumtree, eBay, etc and put the funds toward a cheap thinner LCD. That display is a 480 widescreen (from when people mistakenly thought DVD’s were HD and not SD like the VHS replacement they were… so 1995), so I don’t know how much you’d get for it these days. Regardless, money is money.
Nothing short of a brighter display, or getting the display closer to the glass to eliminate the small gap. I bought a 40" commercial display on Craigslist for $100―one of the outdoor advertising see it from 6 miles away in direct light kind. I pulled everything out of the casing, and replaced the cabling with longer wires so I could mount the power supply and daughter board that had the inputs vertically against the back of the display. That cut down the weight a TON, and gave a much slimmer profile so I was able to get the screen even closer to the glass.
I would certainly NOT trust it to tape, and if you are not allowed to put any holes in the wall at all, then the only thing you might want to try is hanging the mirror using an over-the-door hook, something like this:
You should be able to find something similar, and likely more apt at a local hardware store.
Otherwise I’d recommend just leaning it against the wall and don’t bother hanging it until you move to a permanent home.
@Mykle1 I’m not sure of the temp before the heat sink. I never really payed any attention to it. I had already decided to use a big passive heat sink after reading trough some threads here. So I never tried running the mirror without a heat sink when it was built.
But now when it’s all complete, It’s hovering around 50-55 degrees celsius when all is up and running.
Even if I switch profiles, show, hide modules and “use” the mirror so to speak.
thanks for your effort. The mirror has arrived in perfekt condition. Attached just a short impression. Once everything else I need to build the frame is solved I will post some more pictures.
@j.e.f.f said in How do I go about making a decent sized mirror cheap?:
@chaseb1357 the cost of your mirror is going to scale proportionally with how big you want to make it. If you want to keep it relatively small (say 20" monitor) then you can likely get away with this:
and combine it with any refurb computer monitor you can find. However you’ll still need to purchase the raspberry pi and build the frame for it. You’ll looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $250 at a minimum. Not sure if that fits your budget, and that’s before even considering touch capability.
When I built mine my costs quickly spiralled out of control… mine finished around $800. But that was with a 32" TV and a 1.5 meter piece of two-way glass.
They can get VERY expensive… so far I’m about right where you are with the 32"… but like I said I also used a real itx board and IR touch frame… with more to come…