@yawns said in Use touch sensor to wake up MagicMirror:
The approach is always the same …
Sensor is triggered (touch sensor is touched, button is pressed, camera is identifying motion, PIR is noticing infrared heat), a timer is started and the mirror is activated. Once the timer expires the mirror is deactivated again.
Of course you can use a touch sensor like TTP223. All it does is setting its communication pin on HIGH if someone is touching it. Since this is a momentary touch you need to start some timer, because you don’t want to keep your finger on the touch sensor all the time to be able to work with the mirror.
Downside in my opinion is the positioning of the sensor. It needs to be mounted on the mirror so you can actually touch it, but it is not really looking nice. Using a PIR sensor mounted in the buttom of the frame looking down through a little hole is invisble. You move your hand below the mirror, the PIR senses the infrared heat and you are done.
y want somethink like that,but im going to put the mirror in a place that a lot of people pass,so i think about this:
the touch sensor start the pir,and the pir start detecting if it’s somebody in front,if not,set on standby the screen
i don’t want that the pir it’s detecting all the time
@Advokaten said in mirror for magic mirror?:
I think he’s asking wether there’s something more than just that 3mm glass. Like another type of glass/screen/sheet of any sort, behind it.
No, that’s the only thing I used.
Thanks bud. I do appreciate that
I’m thinking of using a 32" monitor. Sadly, the mirror I’m able to find when it comes to this size is really expensive
Yes, I’m planning my next mirror. I want to go bigger, too, but I also want to keep my costs down. I’m thinking 27" for my next build
@almasgai said in Slim Monitor or TV:
@slametps Thank you so much! I ended up getting a monitor.
@almasgai Please ensure that if your requirement and goal about MM is also involving sound output, using TV rather than monitor is better choice, except monitor is already has built-in speaker. It is also my consideration about using TV for my MM.
@johnnyboy said in Using an Old (2 years old) windows Laptop in place of raspberry pi.:
I, too, started with a Windows machine, but it is possible to install MM and get it running, just in a roundabout way.
Then I installed uBuntu on a laptop and installed MM and that went quite smoothly.
You want the best of both worlds? When you install uBuntu on a PC or laptop there is an option to install it alongside of Windows, making it a dual boot machine.
@amanzimdwini said in raspberry-pi alternatives:
So it does work on Win10 and Ubuntu.
Yes, thanks. And as of this very moment, I can confirm that an old Compaq Presario CQ57 laptop, with a fresh install of uBuntu 16.04 LTS, is running MagicMirror 2 without a hitch. And, more importantly, it’s running MMM-NFL and MMM-Voice for voice control of the module. Voice control was the important factor for me as it’s the only way to access almost all of the features on MMM-NFL As a super deluxe and surprising added benefit to the whole thing, MMM-Voice recognized, and is using, the built-in microphone of the laptop.
I’m dancing on air right now. This NFL machine is going to be a gift to my son-in-law who loves NFL football and Fantasy Football. I’m sure he’s going to love it and be the envy of all his friends.
@cowboysdude > I would format the laptop and install Unbuntu and run MM on that
Great peace of advice bro!
So I’m wiring up my PIR sensor via some jumper cables.
Like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RMBC5I0/ref=psd_mlt_nbc_B00KOL5BCC_ri
They work, but I have two complaints. First is, these cables are pretty short. I’d like to do something much longer. I’d like something a foot long if possible. (This also makes adding a ferrite coil easier)
The other complaint is that they pull off rather easily. I know that’s good for development, but for a final install project how do you keep these things in securely?
Anyone have recommendations?
Because you like hearing from me and like dropping my name
You know, if you build a frame that extends past the edge of the box that will contain the monitor, you can effectively hide the joystick and not have to johnnyboy around with the wiring.
Now, looking at your pictures closely, (I counted the 8 wires and the 8 pins) I would say that each of the eight wires of the harness connect to only one pin each via the clip connector on both the monitor circuit board and the joystick circuit board. With that, and IMHO, I would say that you can lengthen each wire, being careful to match the gauge of the wire as closely as possible. Also, being careful to splice the correct wires to each other. I would use shrinkwrap/crimp connectors for the splicing for proper connection and insulation.
Seeing as you’ll only be extending these wires a few inches (from what I can see) you won’t encounter any resistance problems or degradation in performance of the joystick.
Peace bro . . .
I’ve used this:
mount one on your mirror, one on the wall. It divides the weight evenly over every anchor point and you can use more than two screws to hang your mirror on. (can be usefull if your mirror is heavy and the material of your wall can’t support too much weight)
@lucallmon said in Physical button:
you guys were no help. lol.
This is what fixed it: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=68183&p=497867
@lucallmon That is just rude and unnecessary in my opinion. Keep in mind that everyone here is doing this voluntarily and (usually) in their free time. Maybe you should not crosspost next time, only discuss problems related to the MagicMirror project and keep a friendly and respectful attitude towards everyone around here.