@MilkShake My Plan was to install Awsome Alexa on the Pi, but as the mic didn‘t work I went the ghetto route and plugged my Echo Dot into one of the USB ports. The USB port powers the Dot and that’s it. I can now use Alexa as usual and installed MMM-AlexaControl to control the mirror. Just works. For audio output, e.g. for YouTube, I use the built-in speakers of the monitor panel. They don‘t sound that great (2W output) but it’s ok for me because I don’t need to run the mirror as a full blown audio system.
I’m using the Sony PS3 eye. As there are 4 microphones inside the webcam, it allows me to speak to the assistant at more than 4 meters in my living room despite the ambient sounds (TV, music …)
Do you have the LVDS cable? A 6bit-1CH LVDS has different pin population that for instance a 8bit-2CH. Vcc and GND are at different locations and a wrong cable could potentially fry your LCD.
I am on my phone without my glasses, so I can’t see very well but on the imgur picture it looks like a 8bit-2CH cable while a 1366 resolution seems more like 6bit-1CH (just a guess from my little experience with LCD panels, don’t take it as a fact).
Have you tried to hook it back up to the old laptop to see if it’s still working?
Also, have you flashed the right firmware for the controller board?
Good evening, I’m very new to the Mirror forums, I’ve just embarked on the creation of my Magic Mirror. Coming from some Linux experience i’ve found the software and configuring new modules to be a breeze however i’m struggling with the hardware side.
At current i’ve acquired a 32" Panasonic Viera TV the panel is made by IPS Alpha Technologies, (if that’s any help) and basically i want to rip out the Panasonic main board and power supply etc and use a LCD controller board as this will achieve the results i’m after with the screen (Basically the TV can’t be set to power on into HDMI.
I’ve stripped it back to find what i believe is a TCON board which connects to the panel and from there what I believe to be an 51 pin LVDS ribbon cable.
Providing the details above are accurate, the question’s i’m asking is
Has anyone done anything like this?
If so will a 51pin LVDS to 30 pin dupont work?
I’ve been reading a lot about LVDS pin outs etc, power on the left hand side power on the right.
Any information would really help, i know i may not have been completely clear in my questioning so please ask away for any more details.
I’m laying my tv flat on a table and I want the bottom of the tv to face away from me, however all the cables need to be closest to me. I tried the windows touch screen calibration tool and it showed difficulty during the calibration, often returning to the same points repeatedly. Once it finished the calibration, nothing changed. It didn’t flip.
Is there different software or method of calibration that would get it to flip?
So, Mirrorworld Ultra Silver (GX010) is really good ; better reflection than ChromeSpy because more “silver” and less “brown”, and a little better transmitance than Mirastar.
It’s a really little improvements, and it has a cost + a weight, only in 6mm, need a good frame (wood, …)
So, best choice if no touch foil and no need of great colors behind, and with a good hard frame (a lot heavier)
@NathTheDude I started by doing
note no npm start needed, will run til you ctrl-break out
then tried multiple tries to get chrome on the second display…
(it works manually if the position is mispelled!)
then once it worked reliably,
i killed the server instance
then I used pm2 to stop/start that instance til I got that to work.
note that I had to use
on the second instance as it collided with the 1st…
@pnobrega said in Eeepc instead of raspberry:
I went for ubuntu based on 16.0.4
16.04 was the most current when I started so I stayed with it. In fact, I’m still running 16.04 on my dev machine. The most current(stable) would work just as well, I’m sure. They’ve made some UI changes that I wasn’t thrilled about but that is not an issue.
Gonna se if I can do everything I want with just the PS eye camera
I would suggest staying with the integrated microphone, or an analog microphone if you are going to be using any voice control. Assuming the PS cam is USB, you’d be introducing a bunch of latency that you won’t be happy with. Certainly, use the cam for cam duty.
How did you guys hold the screen to the mirror? I’d like to put the lcd in the middle of the mirror. But i need to prevent it from slide down…
ideas please… thanks
@TheGeekfather I’m in Calgary and just found it from a local glass shop. I believe they sourced it from Crystal Glass. I got three different quotes, all priced wildly different, so it pays to make a few phone calls.
smartmirrors.ca is great if you want an acrylic version.
How should I keep everything attached to the monitor and prevent slipping?
Sorry if this is an ignorant question but my hdmi board and controller board don’t have a metal housing to adhere to the monitor and although everything plugs in fine I was wondering what would be the best option for keeping everything from slipping once it’s on the wall, should I make a PLA housing? Use Velcro? Zip ties?
Thanks for helping out
Yes this is a real problem with the display and controller.
Try to contact a controller seller on eBay (e.g. https://www.ebay.de/usr/csmqshop) and give them your display number. With luck, he could help you.
@Fozi For real time application, yep ; with an acceptable delay, recognition could be done online ^^
An offline example for good performance on RPI : https://medium.com/@aiotalabs/deep-neural-network-on-raspberry-pi-c287e06a3250
Would be happy to test that
@MadScientist said in Display not bright enough:
what you want is a display with high contrast. I think VA panels have the best.
I can fully confirm the better contrast on VA panels compared to TN panels.