Fresh on the forum & excited to plan my MM project!
The Pi is on its way and been thinking of having one in my bathroom - both me and my partner are in need of a central dashboard to start our day and get an overview. Which brings us to the 2-3 minutes of teethbrushing every morning and evening.
So I want to hang the mirror (24" lcd) in the bathroom. The room has no window to vent out the steam as it’s placed in the middle of the flat. Only have a shared ventilation duct with a fan which works, i guess - yetif the shower is super hot or runs longer than 10mins it gets foggy in there.
(not quite as drastic, but blurry enough for the naked eye)
What measures could I take for those moments when it’s super misty in the bathroom?
Thought of making a sealed enclosure but that creates an issue for the rest of the time when there’s no steam = overheating.
Goes for both the Pi & the display.
Potential solutions I thought of:
- microwaveable moisture removing bags (found some at roughly €10 at a car shop)
- aluminium plate backend to work as a huge heatsink, no ventilation holes + enclosure temp sensor for overheating protection
- for both cases: top & bottom ventilation holes closed through motorised sliding panels (Pi controlled) when enclosure humidity goes above a limit. Open hatch when temp is too high :nerd_face: overcomplicating 101
What is your experience with having electronics in damp environments?
The Mirropane available in the US (the one you linked to) with a light transmission of 11% and one reflective side of 68% is theoretical (and in my oppinion) a perfect fit for a magicmirror in normal lighting conditions (not daylight/sunny locations).
@peemoeller said in IR Touch Frame calibration:
@cyberphox Hi there, ok! I now managed to get my IR Touch Overlay set to portrait! also just finished running the xinput touch calibrator program under ‘Preferences’ (it had me touch the 4 red crosses). It shows:
< Calibrating standard Xorg driver “Multi touch overlay device” current calibration values: min_x=0, max_x=65535 and min_y=0, max_y=65535
If these values are estimating wrong, either supply it manually with the - -precalib option, or run the ‘get_precalib.sh’ script to automatically get it (through HAL). >
My issue, I find the curser doesn’t reach the the edges of my monitor. Example I can’t simply click on the Raspberry Icon in the corner. The curser is diaginally 2 inches away? I have a 42 inch IR Touch Overlay using a 32 inch LCD monitor.
Where can I set or adjust this? Any thoughts?
i ask the same question my bro
@dstoneham Do you have a screen with CCFL or LED backlight. If CCFL you could try to replace with a LED strip and see how that works. You can those very cheap already. I did that with an old 17" LCD which had 4 CCFL tubes. Now it has 2 LED strips instead and the brightness increased.
@peemoeller Hi, I never went down this route in the end. It might still be something I might try in the future.
In the end I found a cheap good quality 24" monitor which was going to be fine for my project.
I found some tutorials somewhere on calibrating a touch display but hadn’t found anything with about calibrating for a smaller monitor.
Have you tried experimenting with normal calibration to see if it will calibrate to a smaller display?
I’d be interested if you find a solution to this as I might well be tempted to try it in the future.
I’ve made two serious attempts and both came out with bubbles.
I think the problem the first time was a couple specs of stray sawdust. So the second time I brought it inside and was super clean. The second one actually came out worse though. I think the second one came out worse either because I didn’t lay the film on straight enough or because I used a thinner sheet of acrylic that maybe was flexing as I was squeegeeing out the solution.
What I have the most trouble with is separating the film from its backing layer and getting it onto the acrylic. I always mess that up one way or another. …maybe there’s a way to create a special jig that will make that easy?
My basic process is:
Spray the window (with the gila solution)
Spray the film
Separate the film (while spraying it)
Do my best to get the film squarely onto the acrylic
Use my fingers to flatten it out a little
Squeegee it down a little better (starting from the center until close to the edge)
Use a knife to trim the excess film off
Get serious with the squeegee. I try to start from the center and move out towards the edges but by this time there are usually bubbles all over the place and the show is over anyhow.
How can I get a perfect application of the film? How thick of acrylic do you usually use? Do you do it with the acrylic parallel to the ground or do you hang it on a wall for this purpose? Any advice you have would be outstanding.
I’m 99% done with my first MM build and I have to say, the light bleeding on the LCD makes the part of the mirror where the screen is located pretty useless as a mirror.
I actually recycled an old laptop’s LCD screen, so it still came out great, but during the building stage, I first positioned the screen on the top and then realized how bad the light bleeding was, so I flipped it upside down and positioned the screen on the bottom instead.
OLED monitors would cost more, but I’m guessing they would make a beautiful MM with their higher contrast capability.
Hi there! I have my MagicMirror up and running in portrait mode and works well. I have just added a 42" Infrared Touch Frame Overlay but the touch cursor moves the wrong direction (ie. the touch cursor still set to landscape)
How does one calibrate the touch cursor to portrait mode? I slide my finger up the mirror and the cursor moves right ~ lol.
Any help appreciated
@force_united like Plasma TVs, an OLED screen will technically decrease over time. But this is less of an issue than people realize. With plasma TVs you would need to run the TV for 75 years straight for it to burn out. OLED is similar in this respect. Also, if you use a script to turn off the TV overnight while tou’re Sleeping, or even better use a PIR sensor to wake the TV when you’re near, your OLED display will last your entire lifetime.
Indeed…It will also avoid the USB latence issue which I saw in several threads…
There are tons of mic arrays (mainly called ReSpeaker). Some of them are expensive (79USD).
I just found that one which already includes connexion board to the Pi, only have 4 mics but is cheaper. Seems to be a good comprise.
I just need to figure out how to connect it to the Pi without using / covering the full GPIO as I already have 2 others sensors connected on it.
I have built 3 of them… the one I built for my bathroom hasn’t changed in over a year…no need to, it’s perfect
The BIG 32" touchscreen mirror I tinker with all the time. I do continue building and/or trying to improve my modules and yes some days I’m not even interested but that’s to be expected. You go as far as you need to do then you move on to other things.