@bert2002 said in Small Screen + USB:
I only want to have one power source coming from the magic mirror.
Put a mini power strip behind the mirror to power your devices. Only the power strip cord comes from the mirror
My two cent opinion:
I think it would be extremely difficult to remove the back paint and primer without damaging the silvering (mirror coating). However, I do wish you the best of luck and please keep us updated. Pictures would be great too.
@daryldixon - The one that gets me is integration with other smart devices. Talk to yourself 20 years ago and tell them “Yeah, I programmed my magic mirror to talk to my toothbrush so it can tell me when I’ve finished. In the meantime, my mirror shows me the weather forecast and I can use it to order a pack of toilet paper after I spit.”
We live in an age of wonders.
I didn’t find anything regarding MiraCast in the forum, but it would be cooul if it would work somehow.
As I am using the pi for other things too (MiniDLNA, Homebridge, etc…) it is not located in the frames of the mirror. For this reason I am looking for a wireless solution, instead of connecting the monitor with HDMI.
Is it possible to use for example miracast?
it can be bought from China just for 10 Euros…
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@mdhenriksen all depends what you are after if the op has a weak back light display and is a bright room and also wants to play movies and so on then 50/50 for anything other than the above 70/30 would be fine and ok for watching videos
@sdetweil - Heh. In that case, I’d also need a USB WiFi adapter so I would be up to 4. I think they sell a Wifi/Bluetooth module that plugs into the board itself, but at that point it was pricier than the NanoPC (I think - My research was a week ago and I think that was my reason for going the way I did).
I have plans for another mirror this spring, so perhaps I’ll go your route if the NanoPC isn’t what I’m hoping.
@MadScientist - I have not. I was considering trying an Intel Compute Stick or equivalent. If I didn’t need a PIR sensor or camera, it might be a solid choice.
I have finally got the RPi up and running with all the modules I want for my mirror. The next stage is finding and disassembling a 32 inch TV so that I can have a full length mirror. Does anyone have experience with this? I am looking at getting a cheap 2nd hand from Gumtree or similar (I’m in Australia) but wondered if anyone had a guide for stripping a TV?
I’m worried as I have 0 electrical knowledge and am a little worried about an electric shock or something…
Thanks in advance guys!
I am wondering if someone here has already dealt with a Samsung 2017/2018 line LED TV and image settings for MagicMirror?
I ask because I am not a novice with TVs, but the default image menu doesn’t look to give me enough options to increase the brightness as I expected…
Perhaps I’ve got to access any hidden/service menu to do that?
And if yes how EXACTLY ?
@achanaksadma Welcome to the party my friend you have along one ahead of you …read here and everywhere https://forum.magicmirror.builders/topic/8569/mmm-mirrormirroronthewall-installation-issue/122 from page 1
@boblazer said in Where do you find LCD’s that are larger than 7"?:
One other side question. Has anyone tried splitting up the interface into multiple displays? Instead of using a giant 42" TV to display the time and a status message maybe you could use a few ~7" displays as second and third monitors and display it that way. I’m not sure how you would blend each lcd screen into the surrounding background of the mirror though.
I built a mirror with two 24" displays using a Raspberry Pi and a Fitlet. I considered using the Fitlet to drive both displays, but I couldn’t find a way to guarantee one instance of MagicMirror per display. In the end it was easier to drive each monitor separately. If you’re willing to go Windows, you might be able to pull it off.
I’m adding a third monitor to that mirror in February. Wish me luck!
(also: wait for large sales at Amazon, NewEgg, MicroCenter, BestBuy and the like. I picked up a 47" LCD monitor for like $87 on Black Friday)
The product i used and cut and soldered an original Pi power supply as it didn’t give me enough amps even though it was 2.5 amps