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A New Chapter for MagicMirror: The Community Takes the Lead
Read the statement by Michael Teeuw here.

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  • 32 Topics
    236 Posts
    M
    Hi MagicMirror team, I wanted to share with the community my MagicMirror project featuring a completely custom-built LEGO frame! Hardware Setup: Display: Vertical monitor Computer: Initially Beelink (mini PC), now migrating to Dell OptiPlex D10U System: Ubuntu (Server → Desktop) PIR sensor for automatic screen on/off control via MQTT Implemented Modules: Clock & Calendar (with Italian custom calendar) Weather (Italian weather with hourly and daily forecasts) Compliments (motivational messages) News Feed (Italian news) Automatic screen control via PIR sensor and Node.js Unique Feature: The LEGO frame is completely customizable and modular. It includes: LEGO minifigures on top Colorful decorations on the sides with bricks from various collections Decorative elements (stars, clouds, stickers) Design that perfectly integrates into the home environment Technical Challenges Solved: MQTT integration for PIR control Italian weather modules configuration Optimization for vertical display Power management and automatic screen shutdown The project became not only functional but also a decorative element appreciated by the whole family. The LEGO frame makes the MagicMirror less “techy” and more accessible, especially for children. [image: 1763043465078-lego-frame.jpeg] ![alt text](image url) Thanks for this amazing open source project! Michele!!
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  • E

    Question regarding mirror and monitor bezel.

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    J
    @EventHorizon I’d try a sample from another manufacturer to see if the problem goes away.
  • ?

    Smart Outlet.

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    ?
    Hi, guys. I’m searching smart-outlet (Sorry, I don’t know exact terms). requirements: 220V ~ 240V / 50~60Hz (“Type C” European CEE 7/16 Europlug, Adapter for “Type E/F” European CEE 7/4 or CEE 7/5 Schuko) Programmable by easy API (for power on/off scheduled): It should be able to program the schedule of power on/off. And remote controlled instantly. options If it has 2 sockets, it’s better USB output (1 or 2 sockets, over 2A is better) Google HomeKit supported. I live in Germany, I can find many things in Amazon.de. But I don’t know whether the requirements are fulfilled or not. Can you have any recommendation for me? Thanks.
  • J

    Micro SD extension cable?

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    J
    So I went ahead and ordered one off of Amazon, and I’m happy to report it works just like I had hoped. Now I don’t have to pull the mirror off the wall anymore any time I want to make a backup of my SD card!
  • L

    LED Backlights Q

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    J
    @Lucas2703 As long as the USB charger puts out enough juice to power your LEDs then you should be fine. You won’t be able to power the LED strip directly off of mains power. It will need to go through a transformer – essentially what the USB charger does – to step it down to the correct voltage for the LEDs. This is pretty common when you see lights installed under kitchen cabinets. Any electrical supply store should be able to help you out with everything you need.
  • M

    Glass or foil??

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    C
    I like the acrylic because it is more durable and lighter than glass.
  • E

    Question regarding "System Load" and the "CPU temp" when MM is running.

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    ?
    @EventHorizon said in Question regarding “System Load” and the “CPU temp” when MM is running.: @Mykle1 thank you I shall do! Another quick question. Can I keep my config.js file I have for the newest install? I have it backed up and saved. Can I just use that for when I downgrade? It will save me having to re-add all the modules and custom compliments etc. Maybe available, unless none of your module has restriction of mm version.
  • O

    Does my display need to touch the back of my Magic Mirror?

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    O
    Thanks again!
  • B

    Old LCD PC monitor

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    B
    Dear all, next issue: to reduce the empty space behind the LCD panel, I bought a 90 degrees DVI adapter. But I have noticed, my plug was DVI-D and I bought DVI-I. Question: I don’t want to wait a week for a new one, can I remove few pins (esp. the 4 on the left) on my own? see picture below: [image: 1504603338595-2000px-dvi_connector_types.svg.png] Thx for your help! Regards birdy
  • G

    22" IR touch frames, where to buy?

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    G
    This seems like a better option, right? https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Fast-Free-Shipping-22-10-Points-IR-Multi-touch-Screen-Overlay-IR-TV-Touch-Frame-16/922495_32831463298.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.5bdadf47ImEsNg
  • V

    Itead sonoff 4 ch or Sonoff 4 ch pro？

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    S
    You want a Sonoff TH.
  • A

    Webcam with microphone setup

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    foxF
    Some recommendations for a good cheap outdoor cam?
  • D

    My first MM2 on a PI Zero W. Impossible for a noob like me?

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    D
    Just an Acrylic two way mirror bought online from a dutch webshop.
  • T

    How do I make my 27" monitor (smartmirror) touchscreen *using raspberry Pi*

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    R
    Thanks for the advice will post a reply once ive put it together to share my results
  • B

    E-Ink Display

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    B
    Yeah, I assumed it would be a long shot. I also agree that the refresh flash for something like a clock would be pretty bad, I was thinking that you rarely stare at the mirror information for that long. That also means that using a more power hungry solution with PIR would likely be fine (as long as standby power is low). Thanks for the reply :)
  • O

    Can I use a plasma TV for a MM?

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    rcollieR
    For me the weight would be an issue. However, you can use a standard TV wall mount to get around it. If you get rid of the exterior casing on the TV you can get a smaller “footprint” when paired with the mirror. Really though, like Sean said burn in will be your biggest enemy here. You could write something to have the modules swap places every now and then to try to prevent it, but given that there isn’t really much motion I think you’d end up regretting it. That said… it’s free. So, I figure you’ve got two options: It’s a free TV the’s going to be a screen behind a mirror. How worried about it do you need to get… who cares right? Sell it on Craigslist, Gumtree, eBay, etc and put the funds toward a cheap thinner LCD. That display is a 480 widescreen (from when people mistakenly thought DVD’s were HD and not SD like the VHS replacement they were… so 1995), so I don’t know how much you’d get for it these days. Regardless, money is money.
  • R

    Is there a solution to sunlight overpowering the display?

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    rcollieR
    Nothing short of a brighter display, or getting the display closer to the glass to eliminate the small gap. I bought a 40" commercial display on Craigslist for $100―one of the outdoor advertising see it from 6 miles away in direct light kind. I pulled everything out of the casing, and replaced the cabling with longer wires so I could mount the power supply and daughter board that had the inputs vertically against the back of the display. That cut down the weight a TON, and gave a much slimmer profile so I was able to get the screen even closer to the glass.
  • ?

    Thin Monitor Solution

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    ?
    @mizzoudavis enough but sometimes not stable. I use another hub.
  • O

    Question About Mounting a Mirror in a Dorm

    Unsolved frame mount
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    J
    I would certainly NOT trust it to tape, and if you are not allowed to put any holes in the wall at all, then the only thing you might want to try is hanging the mirror using an over-the-door hook, something like this: [image: 1502199734073-22461740469584p.jpeg] You should be able to find something similar, and likely more apt at a local hardware store. Otherwise I’d recommend just leaning it against the wall and don’t bother hanging it until you move to a permanent home.
  • D

    Type of Raspberry Pi Needed

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    Mykle1M
    @darshan94 said in Type of Raspberry Pi Needed: is that possible to use Raspberry Pi Zero to use this Magic mirror ? Best to use a Pi 3 if you can, IMHO.
  • SnilleS

    Raspberry PI 3 Box for Big Passive Cooling Heat Sink.

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    SnilleS
    @Mykle1 I’m not sure of the temp before the heat sink. I never really payed any attention to it. I had already decided to use a big passive heat sink after reading trough some threads here. So I never tried running the mirror without a heat sink when it was built. But now when it’s all complete, It’s hovering around 50-55 degrees celsius when all is up and running. Even if I switch profiles, show, hide modules and “use” the mirror so to speak. :)
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