Hi everyone, I was thinking about the chance to add a physical button to the magic mirror frame but I have a doubt: do I need a breadboard to make the button works or is there another way to integrate a button directly on the frame? I mean, can I connect the pins directly on the gpio (does it work? And how?)? Thaks all.

Hey guys, im new here and from germany. Any new suggestions here? i definitely need an special size so for my spyglas. Where do you actualy buy your mirror? Any other suggestions as myspiegel.de where the only offer 8mm thick mirrors? https://www.myspiegel.de/spionspiegel-pg-2102.html

I had the same problem but I am using home assistant. I ended up installing MMM remote. And created a switch for on and off parsing theese urls. Maybe that would work for you as well? command_on: "/usr/bin/curl -X GET http://192.168.0.77:8090/remote?action=MONITORON" command_off: "/usr/bin/curl -X GET http://192.168.0.77:8090/remote?action=MONITOROFF"

Re: Turn on/off display remotely via ssh I had the same problem but I am using home assistant. I ended up installing MMM remote. And created a switch for on and off parsing theese urls. Maybe that would work for you as well? command_on: "/usr/bin/curl -X GET http://192.168.0.77:8090/remote?action=MONITORON" command_off: "/usr/bin/curl -X GET http://192.168.0.77:8090/remote?action=MONITOROFF"

I would be happy to do so, but I have been struggling to find (good & cheap) port expanders that allow multiple pHATs - ideally 3. If you could recommend some that would be greatly appreciated.

@MadScientist said in Slim display due to thin space: universal LCD controller board The problem with having it “not mounted” to the door itself will be the cables. I will keep on using the door so id have to make sure they dont break or get stuck or anything. The power cords are strong enough so i dont have to worry - but the LVDS cable i dont trust toooo much ^^ I guess i will be building a “box” on the top side of the door and have the whole equipment in there. That way it is “out of sight”, near a hinge and got a low leverage. But I may order one of the universal boards and mount that to the door as well. Just to reduce the size. Very nice tip from you! Didnt know they are SO MUCH THINER! Wish they had used that right away in the BenQ monitor ._. And the air will flow via some airholes on the bottom and top - like a chimney (hope that is enough ^^)

Hello guys, I am building my first magic mirror selfie booth. I would like to know if I could use smart TV gesture detection for executing the selfie session, using the usual photobooth softwares…?

Just a quick note here, I tried a Logitech 9000 series webcam today and it is superb with MMM-voice. Not a cheap solution, but really worthwhile. The audio recognition is excellent, and actually the response from MMM-voice is much, much faster. I think the clarity of the audio going in greatly reduces the processing time down to near-instantaneous. I don’t know if it helps that the webcam is described as being a ‘fast’ webcam. Really good!

@yawns …update, downloaded installers/raspberry.sh, removed the lines in which the script sniffs your pi, saved it to my dropbox and ran it from there. Installing now, will update if successful. update: unsuccessful. Was going great until it hit the same problem - “npm - command not found. Unable to install dependencies.” I wonder why npm is not flying on this port of Pixel.

Thanks for the input… I was down at my local glass store and they commented that for something like this you may want to stick to glass as well, mainly because acrylic scratches up much easier and will have a lesser overall quality, the price they quoted me for glass wasn’t too bad around $120 or so, which seems cheaper than others I’ve seen online.

thank you for the prompt response! :)

Hello guys, I am building my first magic mirror. The problem I am facing is that the 2 way mirrors available in the local market comes in 3 shades i.e. green, brown and dark grey (because of the polish on one side I suppose). I would like to know which color shall I choose so that the mirror shows the best colors of the display behind?

OLED if you can afford it (due to the fact that it doesn’t has backlight), You have to look att screens with high contrast and where black is really black. Every traditional screen with back lit panels will have a glow that shines through, all depending on what percentage of light transmission the glass has. Lower light transmission means less light goes through which means that the weaker the light source the less gets through. And this is where it gets tricky, If you want to remove visible backlight edges you need a low light transmission (like 2-3% low if you have the mirror in a darker room, you would however still see it when the it’s completely dark). But then the text etc would be rally hard to see when the room lights are on. And if you go in the opposite direction, say like the Pilkington Mirroview 50/50 with 50% light transmission you will most definitely see the backlight edges even in a normal lit room but everything will be visible pretty much like a screen without a mirror in front of it. This is a great option if you are going to have the mirror on display outside or in brightly lit places. The most easily obtained brand and model, at least in Europe, is the Pilkington Mirroview with a light transmission of 20% which is a good compromise that works in most lighting conditions. In my opinion 10% light transmission is an ideal number for normal lit rooms with few or no windows, it will minimize backlight edges but still be easily enough to see text that is being displayed. In my country however there is no such option. North Americans does have access to the Pilkington Mirropane (NOT Mirropane chrome) glass that has a light transmission of 11% and it’s the glass I would love to have, but can’t get.

@conkhidot There’s more than one way to skin a cat. :-)

@CFenner said in Connection refused (http): of DNS or just whitelist your IPadress or see if youre behind a firewall , you can follow these instructures ! https://forum.magicmirror.builders/topic/1326/ipwhitelist-howto

My issue isn’t with the margins. It’s with the resolution of the monitor… I’m using a 32" TV as a monitor on my older desktop, and all the modules are overlapping each other. If I zoom out about 8 or 9 times then it looks really good… But I’m getting tired of having to zoom it with every reload. I would like to just be able to set the zoom in the config or other settings. Or, maybe I just need a higher resolution TV???

@csterling Here are 2 instructions that you can apply to your Pi1 Model B. instruction 1 instruction 2 both instructions are unfortunately outdated, can send you a current on the weekend

Yep, Zwave for sure. If you use something like Vera, the entire system is on lockdown. From there you can use their API to code whatever interface you want. As far as Arduino is concerned, I have built my own automated blinds using, Arduino nano, Nrf24l01 and some Servos. But, any kind of retrofit Zwave controller are probably best. People are probably more prone to sniff wifi on the 2.4 band, or the 802.11 band then on zwave… although anything is possible. “If we’re not totally secure, then we are not secure”… or something like that… I trust Zwave most… personally.

@Ismail said in Raspberry Pi 3’s case and fan: yet no one gave an example of the case I have Perhaps, because that case was not designed to accept a fan, but that doesn’t mean you can’t modify it. :-)