@videogame95 - I normally put a travel power strip inside the frame for the mirror. I’ve since started adding external switches that cut the power to the power strip, but you can get by with just using the power strip’s plug.

Once you have the power strip in the frame, you can plug in the 3.1 amp adapter into the strip, along with the monitor, LED supply or whatever else you have back there. With some careful shopping, you might find a strip with a USB C plug built into it.

@bumrocks general rules

the thing on the left of : does not need quotes

if the thing to the right of : is a number or true/false, also does not need quotes

if the thing to the right of : has letters in it, then it needs quotes, either kind are ok, but must be the same

yes, if the monitor/tv has the ugly no signal/connection, then u want to use hide

@inversation thank you, I just moved to Melbourne and this will be perfect!

Yes, the CN201 supplies the power for the whole LCD. It only has 40V DC, but I’m still careful. ;)
The two black cables are 40V and the white ones are ground.
As I stated before the same happens when I just pull it: the screen turns black and won’t come on again when I put it back in.

The motion sensor seems to be digital but I already tried to replace it without success. The connector C501 in the second picture of my last post is the connection between the control buttons including the motion sensor and the mainboard.
It seems that the first wire labeled as “+3.3V_M” is the power for the motion sensor but I couldn’t get it to work nevertheless. Also, the signal is processed by the main board I guess and as the minimum delay is 5 minutes, this isn’t an option for me anyways.

It seems like I have to live with seeing the OSD sometimes until I decide to swap out the monitor but that won’t happen in the near future.

Anyways, thank you very much for your replies and your time.

If anybody else has an idea or a solution, I’m still happy to try it out.

@lxne said in Hardware Compatibility Question: Using the Grove Adjustable PIR Sensor & ReSpeaker Pi HAT in the Same Build?:

My MM hardware:
Raspberry Pi 3b+
Respeaker 2-Mics Hat
Grove PIR Motion Sensor (connected to Respeaker GP12 SENSOR_PIN=12)
Grove Gesture Sensor (PAJ7620u2) connected to Respeaker I2C-Input

Works for me.

@lxne

how are you using the gesture sensor? have you it behind glass/2 way mirror/plastic ?

thanks

The problem with having the mirror and the sensor so close is that the heat from the monitor and the pi itself will mess with the readings of the sensor.

@kayakbabe thank you very much, I find this community very helpful.

whenever I unplug my pi and plug it back in the fan will go crazy and make a loud noise. What I do is unplug it and plug it back in multiple times until it goes back to normal. Anyone know why?

@drx1984 no. but looks interesting

as for hidden, for others, see

https://winscp.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24963

Well done Prakhar It looks awesome. My friend in India is also looking for the two way mirror. can you tell me from where did you get the two way mirror ?

@banbutcher said in Running MM simultaneously with Home Assistant and Pihole on one Pi:

any luck with any progress?

euh… it’s just a Pi not an PC …configuration needed a lot of Ram … so min a RPI4 4Gb is needed
personnaly, I execute Pihole in separate pi (RPI3B+) and Mirror with RPI4 2Gb
But never I will use it in the same RPI

Hi @MichMich Thank you very much for this project. i am following this for many years and finally got some time to get my hands on this.
for a start i would like to start with smaller mirror but i am having difficulties getting it here in Netherlands (near Leiden). All the shops online are quite expensive. can you please tell me from where you got your mirror ?

@jimbydude
Update
I used this guide to setup calibration:
https://www.thingsconnected.io/raspberry-pi-7-inch-touch-screen-calibration/

Also, despite the manufacturer saying only supports 1 point on Linux, I definitely see multi-point, tried with six fingers using this site:
https://paveldogreat.github.io/WebGL-Fluid-Simulation/

Update
I used this guide to setup calibration:
https://www.thingsconnected.io/raspberry-pi-7-inch-touch-screen-calibration/

Also, despite the manufacturer saying only supports 1 point on Linux, I definitely see multi-point, tried with six fingers using this site:
https://paveldogreat.github.io/WebGL-Fluid-Simulation/

Maybe this module can help preventing burn in issues:
https://github.com/Lavve/MMM-MagicMover

Are there any secret codes for LG TV…?

Just tried this out and works like a charm!

Rihanna now sounds and looks as smooth as intended.

Thanks for the quick and super helpful reply!!

@dhanushx012 I am like the guy who started this topic. I can’t just blank the screen by turning the hdmi output off on the pi. And, I can’t power off the monitor using CEC commands. Even though I am using a HDMI instead of VGA I have the simililar issues.

Q: why not turn hdmi output off?
A: Because my tv monitor detects no hdmi signal and just has to scream at me about it with a not very cute logo and ugly text. There are no settings within the monitor to turn off that message.

Q: Why not power the monitor on/off?
A: I can’t power it off and on using the CEC commands because I also get a annoying message and logo from the monitor when it starts up.

Q: why do you have to use that monitor when it’s easy to get another one that will work either way?
A: I have to use a cheap VIZIO on sale for $32 US that I got. I don’t have a spare lcd panel around to use. Some of us can’t simply buy another monitor. We are using what we have. So far all together with my pi, my $32 monitor, and some cables, molding (frame), glass, and film and a gestures sensor for $2.50. I’ve managed to spend just around $120.

Problem: Same as the guy who originally posted. I need the monitor to be on at all times and sending a signal because of the first two issues listed. So, I am trying to use the MMM-grove-gestures built in way to hide all the modules… but some of the modules don’t behave and turn themselves back on. Super annoying. I’m still debugging that. I think it is inside the currentweather and weatherforecast modules

Solution: get the screen to turn black

And getting it to do that is the crux of the problem.

No one can help ?